Daily Life On Board National Geographic Endeavour’s Galapagos Cruise

Posted on October 30, 2011 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Who’s In Charge

Every National Geographic Endeavour Galapagos cruise has three supervisors:

The Captain, who hopefully you won’t see except at social functions. You don’t want to see him in a public area with a megaphone in hand.

The Expedition Leader, the most visible person of the three since this person usually oversees all Zodiac departures/returns and emcees the nightly recaps in the lounge.

The Hotel Manager is only occasionally recognized at the lounge meetings but is usually present in the dining room at every meal. However, next to the captain, this is the most important person on the ship. The hotel manger is in charge of the cabins, the dining room, pretty much everything on the ship that doesn’t include the bridge or mechanical/technical operations.

Montserrat Rodriquez, the Endeavour’s hotel manger

Finding Your Way Around The Ship

Although the Lindblad National Geographic Endeavour is one of the largest ships stationed year-round in the Galapagos, it carries a maximum of 96 passengers. At the beginning of the cruise, you may find yourself going to the wrong decks because they have an unusual numbering system. Cabins with a 300 number are at the ship’s lowest level, while those with a 100 number are located two decks above, just the opposite of most cruise ships..

The Stateroom

Either the Endeavour has more spacious cabins than any other cruise line or Linda did a really good packing job. For a change, we don’t have camera equipment and other gear scattered around our stateroom. Square-foot wise, our cabin isn’t all that large but it has really good storage space.

Our stateroom room is basic: two twin beds against opposite walls with a nightstand in between. Together, the three items probably don’t cover much more space than a single king-size bed. However, under the beds we can hide the suitcases, shoes, dry bags and other gear.

A flat area between the bed headboards and the cabin’s window makes a convenient shelf for our Kindles, books borrowed from the ship’s library, the daily activity sheets and our sunglasses. We each have a lamp over our beds with the added feature of a built-in reading light, one of the cabin’s best features.

Some cabins on the Endeavour have a large single bed

Surprisingly Good Storage Space

At the foot of one bed is an easy chair and a small work desk with chair and mirror. Amazingly, there are three electrical outlets above the desk. Most cruise ships have one or two. Two of the outlets are 110, the other is 220 for a European-style plug. We always pack a power strip with a 220 plug to have enough outlets for our computers and for recharging camera batteries.

Two roomy closets have several large drawers for stowing folded clothing. The closets also have plenty of space to hang coats, jeans and slacks.

The cabin stewards are surprisingly attentive. In addition to their usual morning clean-up and towel change, they return during the day while we’re out to straighten up the room.

One item absent from the cabin is a TV, which we’re too busy to miss.

Days Begin Early

Mornings start early, sometimes at 6:15 a.m. but never later than 6:45 with a wakeup call on “Radio Carlos,” the name for our room speaker. Carlos Romero, our expedition leader, always greets us with a cheery, “Good morning, breakfast will be served in 15 minutes.”

This speaker system has its pros and cons. It’s a real convenience since you don’t have to worry about setting an alarm clock or being late for any activity since departures are always announced well in advance. And one of the two channels also broadcasts the nightly recaps and any afternoon talks by the naturalists held in the ship’s lounge. That makes it possible for us to stay in our cabin to download images from our cameras and not miss anything important.

Relaxing on deck for sunset watching.

No Rest for the Weary

The one bad part of the speaker system is that if you decide to sleep late and miss an excursion, you can’t turn down the volume. On the one morning Linda decides to take a break, she is regularly bombarded by Carlos’ announcements as he continually reports departure times for kayaks and glass bottom boats throughout the morning. Normally you can turn down the volume or turn off cabin speakers. Not when “Radio Carlos” broadcasts. No way to avoid it.

The Shore Landings

Morning shore excursions usually depart at 8 a.m. and arrive back between 10:30 and 11:30 for lunch, which is at 12:30. Typically, the ship moves to a new location during lunch for a second shore landing. Our blogs occasionally cover both landings but most often concentrate on only one. Why? Because the walks may be so similar that describing one is enough. A more pressing reason: as we write these posts, we’re preparing to leave for New Zealand.

Snorkeling Trips

At the beginning of the week, the naturalists help everyone select a properly-sized shortie wetsuit, a pair of fins and a correctly-fitted mask with snorkel. If you’ve never snorkeled much before, take advantage of the offered training session.

Getting in and out of the water from a Zodiac is easy. The Zodiacs have a removable set of stairs on their bows.

Snorkelers in a Zodiac outfitted with stairs to make getting in and out easy.

Galapagos water temperatures are chilly much of the year, sometimes plunging as low as the mid-50’s. The coldest water temperatures on our trip range from a low of 68 F to a high of 72 F. The water temperatures of each location usually are announced ahead of time so snorkelers can back out before getting wet. Even 72 F is a bit brisk for some wearing only a shortie. Back home, Florida’s fresh water springs average 72 F year-round, temps that require a full wet suit for scuba divers.

Cold and Hot Water

Those nippy water temperatures can be a relief when air temperatures reach 90 F and above. On the other hand, those who were raised in colder climates consider the water temps to be “just like back home.”

It’s a matter of personal fortitude; or an individual’s background or how close to the Arctic Circle they were raised. One woman snorkeler accustomed to warmer conditions said “I turned on the shower as hot as it would go and I still couldn’t stop shaking.”

The combination of cold water mixed with rough waves may become unpleasant after a time. Not to worry. Zodiacs with their special stairs make patrols to pick up anyone who has had more fun than they can stand.
Here’s a sight to catch a snorkeler’s attention–a shark fin!!? No, a swimming sea lion just having fun.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

National Geographic Endeavour Visits Urbina Bay

Posted on October 29, 2011 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Isabela Island from the Endeavour en route to Urbina Bay

Urbina Bay Hikes
The Long and the Short of Them

Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour will spend the entire day at Isla Isabela, largest island in the Galapagos Archipelago. Less than a decade ago, this island was overrun with feral goats and pigs that settlers brought. The animals’ destroyed the endemic flora and fauna, threatening the survival of land iguanas and giant tortoises. The situation promptied the National Park Service to undertake the world’s largest ever ecosystem restoration mission in a protected area.

On northern Isabela, the goat population numbered 100,000 animals when the eradication project began in 1997. It was a costly, high-tech endeavor that used helicopters for aerial hunting. GIS tracking used radio collars attached to sterilized goats to pinpoint any hidden herds of feral goats. The project, a complete success, endied in 2005. Land iguanas and giant tortoises on Isla Isabela are no longer threatened with extinction.

Our day begins at Urbina Bay (also known as Urvina Bay) on the western shore of Isla Isabela. This is a famous location where in 1954 almost one square mile (1.5 km) of sea bottom including a section of coral reef was instantly lifted 15 feet (5 m) above water by a geological uplift. Records indicate that sharks, lobsters and fish were left on land–some even found in the trees–by local fishermen who noticed the strong stench coming from the area. Uplifts occur in the Galapagos frequently, but this is one of the most dramatic ever witnessed.

Urbina Bay’s Two Hiking Trails

Two hiking trails lead from Urbina Bay. Linda and Tim split up to provide the descriptions of both walks.

Linda’s Hike: Almost 60 years later, the ocean bottom has blended with the landscape and everything looks normal. Yet I can’t help but wonder if another sudden uplifting could be on the calendar for today.

I quickly remove the thought. I’m excited about the chance to see huge tortoises in the wild, our first chance for such an encounter. The Endeavour is offering two morning hikes. The longer one is almost 2 miles (3 km) and goes along the beach passing large boulders and upraised corals before turning inland. A shorter, half-mile version covers only the inland portion.

Short vs Long Trail

I choose the shorter walk because climbing doesn’t over boulders doesn’t seem like the thing. I have a touch of motion sickness and it’s not because the Endeavour rocks and rolls that much. I have an inner ear problem that makes me especially susceptible to the motion of a rough Zodiac ride. The high waves yesterday were too much like a roller-coaster ride. I’m still recovering..

The long hikers leave at 8 a.m. and we follow at 8:30. As the departure times grow closer, I become hesitant about doing the short walk. I don’t want to miss any great photo opportunity but the guides have assured me we will see the same wildlife.

Dolphins escort our Zodiac to shore.

The Zodiac trip to Urbina had an awesome surprise. A group of bottlenose dolphins escorted us from the ship to our wet landing site on the beach. Because our hike is short, naturalist Walter has the Zodiac driver follow the dolphins for 15 or 20 minutes.

Galapagos Hawks Easy Photo Subjects

Once on the beach, we are greeted by five juvenile Galapagos hawks. One hawk tries to tear open a bright yellow mesh dive bag that a hiker left on the beach. What a terrific photo opportunity! I am thrilled with my decision to take the short hike decision so far.

Ambitious Galapagos hawk trying to figure out how to fly off with gear bag.

As we depart the beach, we split into different groups (a maximum of 16 persons in a group). My naturalist today is Jeffo who was our guide yesterday on Fernandina Island. The first thing Jeffo shows us is a species of cotton called Darwin’s cotton.

Although it is an endemic species, it seems strange to find something so common and ordinary in the Galapagos. This cotton is closely related to the cotton found on the American continent. So scientists believe a cotton seed was blown here by the wind, washed in by the sea or dropped by a bird.

Darwin cotton bears a yellow flower.

Animals Hide from the Sun

Jeffo slows down to point out several large iguanas hiding under the trees. It’s a clear day and everything seems to be hiding from the sun. We do spot two giant tortoises: a young one hiding in a hole with only part of its shell visible and a fully grown one sandwiched under thick tree limbs as it tries to keep cool.

Urbina Bay on Isabela Island has some of the Galapagos’ largest land iguanas.

When we arrive back at the beach, the hawks are still patrolling and taking their photo is easier than taking candy from a baby. Several people in our group brave swimming in the cold water as sea lions watch them from the rocks. I decide to just sit on the beach and watch a couple of eagle rays glide through the water. I also spot sea turtles bobbing their heads above the water for a quick gulp of air. Only in the Galapagos can I have this kind of experience. It’s extremely pleasant.

The best part of this morning’s walk: we were never rushed; unlike some other hikes. I wonder how Tim is doing photo-wise on the longer walk.

The Long, Long, Long Beach Walk

Tim’s Hike: You would think the first groups ashore for the long walk would see more critters than those who come later. Not necessarily so. Our Zodiac is the first to encounter the bottlenose dolphin and they are close, just yards away from us. They are having fun, porpoising first on one side and then the other. No one is sitting in the bow, which would allow photographing them from both sides, so I claim it and begin firing away.

Because we’re on a schedule–our panga drivers need to go back to get the late-comers–we don’t spend much time with the dolphin but go directly to the black sand beach where a Galapagos hawk is sitting high in a tree watching us. The bird seems as curious about us as we are about it. I am able to move as close as I need for my telephoto lens. Any closer and tree branches would be in the way, with the hawk perched right above me.

In addition to its length, having to climb lava rocks on the beach deterred
many from this longer hike.

I’m so intent on taking hawk pictures I didn’t realize how long we’ve been on the beach. I’m the only one taking hawk photos so why a delay? Hikers for the short walk are arriving. It’s 8:30 a.m. before we start our walk.

Can We Please Get Moving?

I notice there is another group walking the beach far, far ahead of us. I soon understand how this happened. Our naturalist leader is an excellent naturalist but perhaps too obsessed about telling us everything we see; some of which we have seen before.

The steep beach slope at Urbina Bay.

We do see many interesting things on the walk, particularly the steep slope created when the shoreline was pushed a half-mile farther out when the sea bottom uplifted. We also find a remarkably colored male iguana starting to glow with his mating colors.

However, we are just leaving the beach when we start encountering short hikers who have spent almost two hours exploring and photographing the inland area where most of the animals are said to be located. It’s now 10:15 and we’re supposed to be back on board at 11:15. Some of us want to pick up the pace to take the inland trail.

A Beached Coral Reef

We find a cluster of boulder-sized coral heads located several hundred yards from the coastline. Corals generally grow only about an inch a year. Some of the coral boulders are shoulder to chin high or even go over our heads. These are monuments to decades, if not centuries, of coral reef development. All of that work was abruptly ended by the uplift. We are just as susceptible to our planet’s quirks. No use in worrying about it.

Some of the coral heads moved inland by 1954’s uplift of the sea bottom.

I would like to spend more time at this location but the remainder of the trail beckons, which several of us continue to pioneer for our group. The pathway here is more overgrown than any other we’ve ever traveled, an indication of how infrequently it is used.

The overgrown trail at Urbina Cove; a trail marker—the last goat on Isabela Island?

Big Land Iguanas in the Shade

Some of the Galapagos’ largest land iguanas are supposed to live here and we find many of them resting under tree braches as well as the burrows where they retreat to from the sun. We also encounter a large tortoise that has pushed itself well back into a dense thicket to escape the sun. The only photo angle available was turtle butt.

Galapagos tortoise seeks seclusion from sun.

The inland path ends at our landing point. Not surprisingly, the other groups left well ahead of us. We finally reboard the Endeavour a half-hour behind schedule.

As we do, a story is circulating about the efficiency of our life jackets. The waves were strong at the landing site and one Zodiac became partially flooded. Contact with the water caused all the life jackets resting on the bottom to inflate. That’s a sight I’m sorry I missed.

Choose Your Naturalist Wisely

The moral of today’s hike: the naturalist guides can both enhance and hinder your shore excursions. Until today all the naturalists have been excellent. It’s surprising to find one so out of step with the rest.

But that’s easily remedied: I’ll pay more attention to which guide is in charge of a particular Zodiac. And act accordingly.

I certainly saw more than Linda did on her short walk. But she enjoyed hers more.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Lindblad Endeavour Calls at Fernandina and Isabela Islands

Posted on October 28, 2011 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Fernandina, Island of Iguanas

During the night, Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour crosses the equator to take us into the westernmost section of the Galapagos where the undersea upwelling creates cool water temperatures as low as the mid-50’s F. This cold water provides a rich marine smorgasbord for the sea lions, marine iguanas and flightless cormorants residing in the region.

Our first landing of the day is on Fernandina Island, at one of the Galapagos’ best-known sites: Punta Espinosa, a narrow stretch of land and lava rock almost guaranteed to have a large concentration of animals, particularly marine iguanas. Darwin may have considered them hideous, but seen close-up, through a camera lens, their faces become captivating, almost appealing in a grotesque way; they certainly have character .

Fernandina Island, considered the youngest of all the Galapagos Islands, is still lively with volcanic activity. The last eruption here was in 2009, when the southern flank of the La Cumbre volcano had a fissure eruption that generated flows lasting for several hours. La Cumbre is considered among the Galapagos’ most active volcanoes, with eruptions in 2005 as well as 2009. Successive lava flows from the volcano have streaked the island in black, making this one of the most inhospitable islands for animal life living away from the shore. Because no animals were ever introduced, some consider Fernandina to be the largest, most pristine island remaining in the world.

This NASA satellite photo shows the volcanic plume from the 2009 eruption
of La Cumbre on Fernandina Island. The tiny section marked in red shows where unusually hot surface temperatures were detected.

From the Endeavour, Fernandina and its 5,000-foot volcano are an imposing sight. They become even more impressive as our Zodiac draws close, winding through a lava canal that leads to another over the bow scramble to stand on lava rock. This time I realize the Zodiac’s netting is not only to protect the rubber boat but also to provide us better traction when wave splashes slicken the bow.

Despite the thick lava crust bordering the shoreline, the National Park Service has managed to place posts in the rock to mark off a nature trail. We need the trail to guide us, too, because the dark lava rock is littered with black marine iguanas almost everywhere. When the animals are bunched up in groups of 20-50 animals, they’re easy to step around. It’s the stray animals (seeking solitude?) that demand careful attention while walking the path. Anyone who stops spotting to view what’s ahead–or where they intend to step next–is likely to find a marine iguana underfoot.

Our naturalist, Jeffo Marquez, says all these iguanas are males which are hanging together like best friends, partly to increase their body warmth. But when the mating season begins, he says all the buddy-buddy get-togethers abruptly end and it’s every male for itself as they compete for a female. Sounds like a familiar ritual.

We come upon a female sea lion reclining on the hard lava rock as her pup suckles. It’s a surprisingly noisy process that we can hear over the waves. Jeffo z points out how a sea lion mother will never nurse another pup, even one that’s been abandoned and starving. It’s already hard enough for a mother to find enough food to nourish her own, which she nurses from six to 12 months.

This is not puppy love. This is war.

Just as Jeffo ends sharing this tidbit of knowledge, two sleek and healthy sea lion pups, apparently drawn by all the nursing pup’s slurping sounds, suddenly appear from behind some rocks and quickly flipper-walk toward the nursing mother. She raises her head to issue a loud roar at them. That alerts her pup, which scrambles around to face the first aggressor. To protect his own feeding rights, the pup barks at the newcomer and aggressively nudges at it, attempting to drive away. The second interloper keeps its distance, seemingly unsure what to do. Finally the intruder sees this claim jumping isn’t going to succeed. It turns away and retreats, with its buddy close behind. The two come in our direction, realize we have nothing to offer, then plop down on the lava rocks. Excitement over.

“I love it when nature proves my point!” Jeffo exclaims.

Whale bones on display at Fernandina Island; lava cactus

Isabela Island Zodiac Ride

In the afternoon, we cross the Bolivar Channel to anchor near Punta Vincente Roca at the southern end of Isabela Island. A mid-afternoon Zodiac tour passing close to Isabela’s high rocky cliffs should show us the famous Galapagos penguins, flightless cormorants, sea turtles and the ubiquitous marine iguanas. However, the rough seas make this an unusually exciting outing and a challenging one for photography. That’s unfortunate because all the critters are present, including numerous sea turtles and several penguins that swim within yards of us. The motion of the bouncing boat is compounded by the deeply shaded area where most of the animals are hanging out; the angle of the sun would have been much better in the morning but the Endeavour has to follow the schedule given to it by the National Park. It’s disappointing to imagine the images that might have been.

Having an action-packed time in the waves off Isabela.

Later this afternoon, just before sunset, we’re scheduled to recross the equator. This time we’ll be able to celebrate the occasion, unlike last night when we slept through it. To mark the event, a bar with snacks is set up on the foredeck in front of the bridge.

Many of us assemble there or on the Endeavour’s bow to view Isabela’s amazing geologic formations. Isabela, at 62 miles (100 km) long, is the largest island in the Galapagos. It also is located near the “Galapagos hot spot,” an area where magma pushes through the ocean floor crust but quickly cools underwater to form a gentle sloping formation. As more magma is propelled from the hot spot, the slope keeps building until it reaches sea level and creates an island.

Isabela, considered among the youngest islands here at only one million years old, was formed by the merger of six “shield volcanoes,” so-named because of their large size and their low profile. Those two characteristics combine to resemble a classic warrior’s shield. The last eruption on Isabela took place in October, 2005; the eruption on Fernandina that same year was in May. An estimated 60 eruptions have occurred in the Galapagos over the past 200 years.

The cone of a shield volcano at Isabela Island.

As we continue to enjoy spectacular views of Isabela’s dramatic coastline, Endeavour expedition leader, Carlos Romero, announces all passengers should come on deck if they want to see the line when we cross the equator. Linda and I look at each other, wondering what is planned to create the famed but invisible equatorial line. We move to the ship’s upper deck for a better view.

Two naturalists, one wearing an Egyptian headdress, appear on the foredeck to unfurl a wide ribbon carrying yellow, red and blue stripes that match those of the Ecuadorian flag. Carlos starts a count-down to the moment the ship reaches the proper coordinates, then invites everyone “to cross the equatorial line.” People hesitate, wondering if the naturalists will decide to lower their equatorial line from shoulder level to knee level, which would demand some limbo action to squeeze under it. But the equatorial line stays stable at shoulder-height.

Crossing the line at the equator.

I decide to bolt from the upper deck to join in the line crossing. Linda follows but, being more petite and less pushy, falls behind. It’s a good thing one of us is at the equatorial line because Carlos is waving a single certificate marking this historic passage–and the certificate has Linda’s name on it.

Carlos calls me over to take her place. As he hands me the official-looking document signed by the ship’s captain, he tells everyone “And all of you will receive one!” His announcement prompts cheering and applause from all the passengers. Linda then shows up, just in time to take a photo of me holding her certificate.

This “ceremony” was unexpected and it was fun. But soon everyone’s attention moves to the horizon where the sun is about to set. And it’s going to be a pretty one.

Tonight, the Endeavour will almost circumnavigate Isabella to take us to locations many smaller ships don’t have the speed to reach for a normal seven-day Galapagos cruise. We’re especially looking forward to the first stop at Urbina Bay. We’ve been told about a section of coral reef that was moved almost a half-mile inland following a major upheaval in 1954. Just so something similar doesn’t happen tomorrow while we’re on land.

The moon rises over Isabela Island.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

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Tag Archives: galapagos Endeavour cruise photos and pictures

Daily Life On Board National Geographic Endeavour’s Galapagos Cruise

Finding Your Way Around The Ship

Some cabins on the Endeavour have a large single bed

Surprisingly Good Storage Space

Days Begin Early

Mornings start early, sometimes at 6:15 a.m. but never later than 6:45 with a wakeup call on “Radio Carlos,” the name for our room speaker. Carlos Romero, our expedition leader, always greets us with a cheery, “Good morning, breakfast will be served in 15 minutes.”

No Rest for the Weary

The Shore Landings

Snorkeling Trips

Cold and Hot Water

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National Geographic Endeavour Visits Urbina Bay

Urbina Bay’s Two Hiking Trails

Short vs Long Trail

The Zodiac trip to Urbina had an awesome surprise. A group of bottlenose dolphins escorted us from the ship to our wet landing site on the beach. Because our hike is short, naturalist Walter has the Zodiac driver follow the dolphins for 15 or 20 minutes.

Darwin cotton bears a yellow flower.

Animals Hide from the Sun

The Long, Long, Long Beach Walk

Can We Please Get Moving?

Big Land Iguanas in the Shade

Choose Your Naturalist Wisely

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Lindblad Endeavour Calls at Fernandina and Isabela Islands

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Finding Your Way Around The Ship

Some cabins on the Endeavour have a large single bed Surprisingly Good Storage Space

Days Begin Early

Mornings start early, sometimes at 6:15 a.m. but never later than 6:45 with a wakeup call on “Radio Carlos,” the name for our room speaker. Carlos Romero, our expedition leader, always greets us with a cheery, “Good morning, breakfast will be served in 15 minutes.”

No Rest for the Weary

The Shore Landings

Snorkeling Trips

Cold and Hot Water

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Like this:

Urbina Bay’s Two Hiking Trails

Short vs Long Trail

The Zodiac trip to Urbina had an awesome surprise. A group of bottlenose dolphins escorted us from the ship to our wet landing site on the beach. Because our hike is short, naturalist Walter has the Zodiac driver follow the dolphins for 15 or 20 minutes.

Darwin cotton bears a yellow flower. Animals Hide from the Sun

The Long, Long, Long Beach Walk

Can We Please Get Moving?

Big Land Iguanas in the Shade

Choose Your Naturalist Wisely

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Like this:

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Like this:

Some cabins on the Endeavour have a large single bed

Surprisingly Good Storage Space

Darwin cotton bears a yellow flower.

Animals Hide from the Sun