Horseback Ride To Samana’s El Limon Waterfall, Dominican Republic

Posted on January 27, 2013 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Riders on the El Limon waterfall trail in the Sierra Samana mountain range.

Jet Blue’s inaugural Dominican Republic arrival is a memorable one

When a plane lands at an airport and fire trucks quickly begin spraying water over the fuselage, that’s normally a sign of big, big trouble. But that isn’t the case when my JetBlue flight touches down at El Catey International Airport at Samana, in the Dominican Republic.

Instead, as we were advised before landing, streams of water are a traditional way to welcome an airline’s inaugural flight. I notice they also have a practical purpose: washing off the plane’s windows for its return flight.

This arrival celebration marked the beginning of JetBlue’s direct New York-JFK service to Samana, placing this remote section of the Dominican Republic in much easier reach for visitors from the U.S Northeast and Canada. Our arrival also made JetBlue the leading U.S. carrier to the Dominican Republic, with regularly scheduled JetBlue flights arriving at every major destination including Santo Domingo, Punta Cana, Puerto Plata and La Romana in addition to Samana.

Inaugural flight has special greeting. El Catey International Airport, Samana

El Limon is one of Samana’s most popular attractions

The inaugural shower at the Samana airport is a fitting start to a trip that will include visits to some of Samana’s most popular attractions, including the 130-foot high Falls of El Limon (also known as Salto El Limón and Cascada el Limon).

While it’s possible to reach the falls on foot, it probably would be a lonely, rough and likely a muddy trek. Most people prefer to go by horse, which is an unexpected adventure in itself. In the Samana countryside near the falls are various paradas (literally means “stops”) where small ranchers organize excursions to the falls.

Our chosen ranch is Parada Basilio & Ramona’s, located in the tiny community of Sendero el Café. We gather in their open air dining room and learn we must pick through an assortment of bike helmets and knee-high rubber boots, considered essential equipment for our ride.

Ranchers advertise with small signs. Guide protects saddle from rain.

Young guides and sturdy horses

The bike helmets are to protect us in case we fall off a horse, an understandable precaution, especially considering the steep inclines and descents we expect to encounter.The rubber boots are for crossing several swift streams where the water could ome close to our knees. It’s been raining on and off so the rivers are swollen. Good news in one sense since it ensures El Limon waterfall will be at full flow.

A line of horses waits for us, each one held by a young villager who not only will serve as our guide but accompany us for the entire trip. As each of us mounts up, a guide is ready to jog beside the horse and stay glued to his rider for the rest of the trip. This ensures there will be no horseplay here with people competing to the top. A good approach considering many of the winding trails are narrow and tight with no space for two horses to pass.

And river crossings? There are two in each direction. Considering that since the age of 12 every horse I have ridden wanted to take a roll in the water when I was in the saddle.
Having a guide leading with the reins makes these a tranquil crossing.

View of my horse crossing. Guides make sure it’s a safe crossing.

Trail’s End

The bumpy ride to the falls takes about 45 minutes. At trail’s end, we reach a large open-air bar and restaurant with almost a dozen picnic tables. The shelter is crowded with riders from other paradas, some like us ready to make the descent to the pool beneath the falls, others preparing to depart.

With new people constantly coming and going, there is no secure place to leave anything and since your guide will be at your side, don’t expect to find anyone to guard whatever you want to leave behind for your trek to the base of the falls. What you ride off with stays with you for the entire time. Travel light.

Salto El Limón are located at the top of the Sierra Samana mountain range, about a thousand feet above sea level. The waterfalls are opposite us, on the other side of the Limon River. Unfortunately, this day is overcast and a light mist (clouds?) blur the waterfall’s impressive display. On a clear day, just the front yard of the bar would have a great view.

View of El Limon waterfall in front of the bar/restaurant where rides end.

The climb down on foot to reach the falls

It’s a walk of several hundred feet down to the pool at the base of the falls. The way down is via a long series of slippery wooden steps with a guard rail for support. Most of our group wades across the pool to reach the opposite bank. Then they make the climb to a second pool better for swimming. Others stay behind to watch two guys dancing atop big rocks being pummeled with water..

When it’s time to make the return trip from the falls, the thousand-foot climb seems to work against flatlanders who live in low country. There’s a surprising amount of huffing and puffing from almost everyone, especially me, with occasional rest stops to suck in air. Maybe it’s the steep incline but it feels like we’re climbing far higher than 1,000 feet.

Cruise passengers from Norway join us

Back at the top we meet a large group of Europeans from the Norwegian cruise line Hurtigruten. Their ship is docked in Samana Bay near the provincial capital of Santa Barbara de Samana. The Norweigans are looking forward to getting their feet wet at the bottom of the falls.

I finally got to know my guide better while at the falls. He’s a 14-year old student who is out of school today thanks to a holiday. Instead of taking the day off, he’s here hoping to earn a tip, the only pay he’ll receive for his work. It’s the same situation for all the guides, though none of us knew this in advance. If we had, some of us would be better prepared because these people have worked hard. There will be a lot of furtive borrowing and lending at the end as soon as we dismount.

Steep stairway to the falls. Base of El Limon waterfall.

Fortunately, the rains hold off until we make the shelter of the bar. Then we experience an intense but short-lived frog strangler that almost blots out the falls. Soon it’s time to mount up and head back. The horses are motivated to return to their pastures; the trip down is 15 minutes shorter than our ascent. And the sun actually comes out briefly to show what a beautiful countryside we are riding through.

Mules vs horses for the ride

Some paradas, unlike Basilio & Ramona’s, use mules instead of horses. Considering the frequent web complaints about mules repeatedly trying to leave the trail and how much harder mules are to handle than a horse, a parada with horses seems definitely preferable.

So is one that serves food. After completing our trip of about 2.5 hours, we’re treated to a truly varied lunch: grilled chicken, spaghetti and tomato sauce, refried beans, rice, a mixed salad of lettuce, tomatoes, onions and fruit. Especially appreciated is the king of beers, a cold Dominican-brewed Presidente. It’s a perfect meal.

For more information about things to do in Samana, click here. For Samana cruise port information, click here.
If you go to El Limon

Many tourists tend to wait until the afternoon, so mornings are less crowded and avoid the hottest part of the day. Wait too late and you could be riding back in the dark, not a happy prospect.

Bring a backpack with water, a snack and sunscreen. If you plan to swim, wear your suit. For the ride, wear jeans, not shorts. Bring an extra pair of socks because the ones you wear while riding could get wet. A wide brimmed hat works well against the hot sun and rain.

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Tulum Maya Photo Album

Posted on June 3, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Maya Ruins at Tulum on a dark, overcast morning at sunrise

Tulum, the walled city built by the Maya on Mexico’s Caribbean Coast around 1200 A.D., has become so popular it now contains two barriers. The first is the old stone wall enclosing the city on three sides. According to archaeologists, these were constructed not for defensive purposes but to prevent the masses from entering the sacred confines where religious and magical ceremonies were held.

Tulum recently added another barrier, this one of rope, to keep the masses of tourists away from the buildings, including the most famous landmark off all, the Pyramid El Castillo. There are two reasons for closing what used to be total access to all the sites. First, the number of visitors has increased dramatically over the past 20 years, from 1,000 to 4,000+ people daily. Second and perhaps more important, too many tourists don’t know how to behave themselves. Instead of appreciating the Riviera Maya’s best known landmark, these egotists were more interested in writing graffiti on Tulum’s stone monuments, leaving such memorable trivia as the day they visited (who cares?) or the name of their eternal love at the time (ditto about caring). Now, even the popular swimming and sunbathing beach on the left of the Pyramid El Castillo is protected by a wooden fence. Fortunately, limited swimming is still possible to the pyramid’s right on a beach reached by a steep stairway.

The ropes make it more difficult to photograph Tulum than previously, but there are still plenty of good vantage points, though it takes a little more effort to find them. These photos were taken over two days, including a very cloudy morning and a sunny afternoon. I also was fortunate enough to have special access to go beyond the rope barriers, part of a group of travel photographers with the Society of American Travel Writers.

This illustration at Tulum shows how the city may have looked

Hated the lousy weather but the dim sunlight did something remarkable: it made it much easier to see the traces of red paint on some of the buildings, a feature the hot sun often glares out, such as the red hands on the exterior of the Templo de las Pinturas (Temple of the Paintings); similar to how bright sunlight on glaciers glares out the blue colors in the ice. This may seem a strange analogy but the hot summer Yucatan sun and sweltering humidity at Tulum made me frequently think of ice and other cold things.

Telephoto of fresco inside Templo Pinturas Tilted tower part of the pyramid complex

Note the rope barrier beside the pathway. Few tourists were present
just before closing time.

Red paint traces at one entrance. Numerous iguanas now inhabit Tulum.

This building is the portal for the winter The solstice portal is adjacent to a temple.
and summer solstices.

The thatch roof shades an interior and           Swimming area to the right of Pyramid
sculpture over the Palace door.                        El Castillo.

Umbrellas useful, rain or shine. Trolley from parking area to the ruins.

A souvenir rug at the Tulum parking area. These are colorful hammocks, not bikinis.

With the last tourist gone, darkness again descends on a deserted Tulum.

Reaching Tulum is a simple thing for anyone staying on the Riviera Maya. It’s just off the main highway from Cancun, easily reached by tour bus or rental car. Not so easy for those on a cruise since most ships with day excursions to Tulum and the Riviera Maya typically dock at Cozumel island, a distance of about 12 miles from Playa del Carmen on the Yucatan mainland. The ferry trip from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen takes about 35 minutes. The first ferry departs Cozumel to Playa at 5 a.m. Then it leaves every hour from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; the final trip of the day is at 10 p.m.

Two companies offer the ferry service, Mexico Waterjets and Ultramar. Note that ferry schedules on some days do not provide hourly ferry service. Typically, the 8 p.m. and 10 p.m. trips are cancelled from Playa to Cozumel. Cost each way is about US$12.

After reaching Playa del Carmen, your distance from Tulum is almost 40 miles (63 km), a travel time between 45 minutes and an hour depending on traffic. Because of the distances involved and the different modes of travel, a trip to Tulum is an outing best booked through your ship’s excursion desk. You don’t want to get caught in traffic and literally miss the boat.

Drug Addict Killed The Senator, One of World’s Oldest Trees

Posted on March 2, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

The Senator in its better days.

RIP The Senator

The Senator, a 3500-year old bald cypress ranked as the fifth oldest tree in the world, was killed January 16, 2012, by an arsonist at Big Tree Park, Longwood, Florida.

This is just as I predicted weeks ago, when others theorized a deadly lightning strike was the cause at a time when there was no lightning. Even more asinine was the suggestion that spontaneous combustion caused the tree to burn itself up. This was supposed to have happened because the tree’s wind-driven branches rubbed against it furiously and made it go poof!.

The Senator died a stupid death. It turns out the fire was accidental, started by a 26-year old woman who set fire to twigs and branches around the tree to better see the drugs she was taking.

Arsonist took photos of burning tree

Once the tree caught on fire, she used her cell phone to take photos of it. She did not bother to call the fire department or take any steps to end the devastation she started. Police were leisurely in arresting the meth head. Although they received a tip the day after the fire, they did not arrest her until February 28, more than a month later.

How much did the judicial system value The Senator? Not much. Bail for the arsonist was only $5,950. The low bail amount reflects how much Seminole County officials traditionally have respected the importance of the nation’s largest bald cypress tree and its nearby companion, the 2,000-year old Lady Liberty.

Seminole County officials now spend money to protect—a stump?
Protecting the tree while still alive might have been a better idea.

The Senator gets bigger fence after being set afire

The Senator and Lady Liberty’s home in Big Tree Park is not a desirable location. Years ago Big Tree Park turned into a notorious after-dark location where drug use and prostitution were common activities. Not only was Big Tree Park allowed to turn into a seedy nighttime spot, Seminole County officials never installed lights or security cameras. There was not a single nightly patrol car to make the rounds at Big Tree Park.

The only protection afforded The Senator was a metal fence around its base. . . an obviously useless safeguard.

In a classic case of too little too late, Seminole County commissioners have decided to spend $29,000 to build an 8-foot fence around The Senator’s stump and another around Lady Liberty before she becomes someone’s demolition project.

Still no park lights or security cameras. As for police patrols, that remains to be seen.

Live vs inanimate objects

Indifference by officials compounded by incompetence are the real culprits for killing The Senator. The towering tree had stood for 3,500 years. Like other equally ancient monuments–the pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge–it was expected always to remain.

It never seemed to occur to those in charge that living monuments require more care and protection than those made of rock. The Senator was disregarded and left on its own in a once pleasant county park that was allowed to go to ruin. That neglect is not only embarrassing, it is unfathomable.

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The Senator Cypress Tree, One of World’s Oldest Residents, Dies in Suspicious Fire

Posted on January 17, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Probably a victim of arson

The Senator, one of the world’s oldest inhabitants, died Monday, Jan. 16, 2012. A life-long resident of Longwood, FL, The Senator spent the final days of its 3,500 years as the main attraction at Big Tree Park.

At 125 feet (38 m) tall and with a trunk diameter of 17.5 feet (5.3 m), The Senator not only was the largest cypress tree in North America, it was ranked as the world’s fifth oldest tree. Before a 1925 hurricane, The Senator was almost a third taller at 165 feet (50 m).

Experts say The Senator was only a sprout when Stonehenge was being erected, iron was being created and China was giving birth to one of the first civilizations to record its written history.

Only four trees alive on earth today are older than The Senator. For those who care about such things, the loss of The Senator is devastating.

Death was due a to fire that felled the tree within hours of the arrival of firefighters at around 5:50 a.m. Monday. By 8:15 a.m., the tree had largely collapsed. Most of The Senator was hollow. Local media have compared the fire inside the wood cylinder as a blazing chimney fire or the ignition blast of the space shuttle.

Arson seems most likely cause of fire

Cause of the fire is still being investigated. Theories include arson, a lightning strike that occurred several weeks ago and–the most intriguing of all–spontaneous combustion.

Initially, responding fire fighters blamed the fire on arson because twigs and branches were piled near the base of the tree, possibly by a homeless person. However, Sunday night was mild compared to some previous nights this month. The initial report said the greatest heat from the fire was at the base.

The investigation was quickly taken over by the Division of Forestry whose investigator blamed lightning and apparently concluded that the greatest heat was in the crown of the tree. His theory was that the strike occurred several weeks ago. The tree was quietly smoldering before breaking out into a full-blown blaze on Sunday.

This would mean that for several weeks no visitor or anyone in the area would have noticed any smell of smoke, a questionable scenario.

Did a lightning rod fail?

However, blaming lightning brings into question the competence of the company that had installed a lightning rod to protect the tree after a previous lightning strike.

The lightning protection company name is prominently displayed at the main overlook of The Senator. Blaming a lightning strike as the cause leans towards libel since it implies the company as being responsible for The Senator’s death.

The spontaneous combustion theory theorizes that the few ancient limbs on the tree because were waving back and forth, creating friction, and thus the fire. Since the limbs were stubs and there was no great wind storm that night, an alien laser might make more sense.
Offical cause of death: UNKNOWN

The Senator was named for Senator M.O. Overstreet, who donated this massive cypress and the land around it to the people of Seminole County in the 1920’s. Until the 1960s, Big Tree Park was one of the area’s most popular attractions for family picnics. Such a big attraction that gift stands sold souvenirs of The Senator. Besides Big Tree Park, the only other local attractions were the swimming pool at Sanlando Springs (now a private community called The Springs) and the Central Florida Zoo (still doing well).

The big question now is what will be done to save the Liberty Lady, a 2,000-year old cypress tree only a few yards from The Senator.

With the death of The Senator, at 89 feet (27 m) high, 10 feet (3.0 m) in diameter Lady Liberty is now Florida’s Champion Tree for bald cypress. The age of Lady Liberty also makes it an unusual treasure.

Protecting Lady Liberty

Will anything be done to protect Lady Liberty from whatever fate killed The Senator?

Not unless there is an armed guard ready to intercept/report whatever happens next. The fence around the park is easily scaled, even by”homeless people” or vandals.

Regardless of the cause, the fall of The Senator is a loss to those who care about safeguarding ancient nature. The Senator was one of the last of the Ents (Lord of the Rings).

Wading through the various causes of The Senator’s death, it would seem there is a fire bug out there that needs to be squashed.

“Rest in Peace” sign left by resident

San Cristobal is National Geographic Endeavour’s Final Galapagos Stop

Posted on January 17, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

by Linda & Tim O’Keefe

A day of amazing contrasts

To the west of us, Isabela Island is one of the Galapagos’ youngest islands and among the first we visited. San Cristobal Island, on the other hand, is the eastern most island in the entire archipelago and ranks among the oldest. San Cristobal also is the first island Charles Darwin visited on his Galapagos voyage but, for us, it’s the last stop on our seven-day journey aboard Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour.

This morning the Endeavour is anchored off San Cristobal at Punta Pitt where we have a choice of a Zodiac ride to look for birds on the island’s volcanic cliff or hike up a dry stream bed that requires “good walking shoes and good physical fitness as it is steep and rather slippery”. Having seen Tim’s pictures from the rugged beach hike with big boulders at Urbina Bay on Isabela Island, I opt for the boat ride; he takes the hike.

Starting the hike to a plateau overlooking Punta Pitt beach

San Cristobal is home to all three species of boobies. Since we’ve seen only blue-footed boobies so far–and only a few of them– we welcome the chance for a good look at all three species before we depart for home. My Zodiac ride will end at the Punta Pitt beach, which is the trailhead for the hike. Once the morning excursion is over, both groups will have an option to swim or snorkel.

As I maneuver into the wave tossed panga, I feel a definite wind chill factor. Thankfully, the Endeavour’s expedition leader suggested bringing a windbreaker. Glad I did, despite the awkwardness of zipping it up over a life jacket and then wearing my backpack on top of the windbreaker. It’s too rough to re-do things and put the windbreaker under the life jacket.

Red-footed booby on cliff rock; blue-footed booby at Punta Pitt beach

A bounty of booby birds

Jason, our naturalist, tells us about the geologic history of San Cristobal and what to expect in our search for boobies. He explains the contrast between the three birds. The blue-footed booby with its blue legs and feet is mostly white with dark wings and mottled back, a pale head with thin dark streaking and a grayish beak. The red-footed booby, the smallest of the three, varies widely in color from mostly white all over except for large brown wings to completely brown. They are the only boobies that nest in trees.

The largest booby is the Nazca, with a beautiful white head and body with a dark tail, orange beak and eyes and its signature mask around all of its face, not just the eyes. Also known as a masked booby, the Nazca booby–like so many other Galapagos animals–is recognized as a distinct masked booby subspecies.

As the Zodiac navigates around a large rock formation, a bull sea lion bellows out to a female hidden in the crevices. Perched high above the male sea lion is the first Nazca booby of the day. At the same time, red-footed boobies glide over us. Taking decent photos is almost impossible–the birds flying, the Zodiac rocking and everyone in the panga moving around trying to see it all.

On San Cristobal’s high plateau, plant life is easier to find and far more colorful
than the booby birds, which are scarce and at a great distance

Looking for birds by Zodiac

Jason, trying as usual to ensure his passengers have the best views, asks the Zodiac driver take us through a narrow channel circling the shoreline to reach the beach at Punta Pitt instead of simply retracing our wake. The ride offers lots of views of nesting birds . . . until our Zodiac motor stalls out. Unfortunately, it happens to be low tide and the channel is too shallow for us to pass through.

Without power, the waves heave the Zodiac against the rocky shoreline. We start playing musical chairs, moving back and forth in an attempt to shove the Zodiac off the rocks. The tide and wind fight against us but we make progress. Eventually, we’re able to push the craft into deeper water so the motor can be lowered back in the water. The engine starts immediately; we slowly back out of the channel. What an unexpected adventure!

After passing more nesting boobies on San Cristobal cliffs, the Zodiac edges onto the beach at our Punta Pitt landing. The beach here is being patrolled by a bull sea lion who is not at all happy about having guests. He swims back and forth parallel to the shoreline, barking warnings at anyone who steps into the water. At the same time, just a few yards offshore a pair of lively sea lion pups porpoise and play, ignoring the agitated adult. Several people decide to ignore the big sea lion’s aggressive manner and enter the cold water to swim. The sea lion pups befriend a snorkeling couple and frolic beside them.

Seal pups playing in the shallows off Punta Pitt beach

Punta Pitt beach landing

No longer distracted by the sea lions, I finally notice how the beach literally sparkles in the sunlight. The glittering sand seems to have jewels ground into it. Not diamonds, of course, but a mineral named olivine, a magnesium iron silicate, that makes this sparkling beach truly spectacular.

A blue-footed booby happens to be nesting on a cliff just above the beach. Tim takes pictures of the booby, noting it’s the closest he’s been to a bird all morning. The birds he saw on his hike were quite far away. He says he spotted two distant red-footed boobies but no Nazcas. Beyond the nesting blue-footed booby are several tidal pools filled with some of the brightest colored Sally Lightfoot crabs we’ve seen the entire trip. The stationary crabs make the best photo subjects of the morning.

Zodiacs begin making trips back to the Endeavour. We’re in no hurry to leave the beach. Eventually, the last hikers return from the mountain, almost 45 minutes later than the other groups. Tim shakes his head. “Poor people had ‘Chatty Cathy’ for a guide. Now they’re going to miss any beach time, just as I did when she was my guide on Isabela. She can’t go 10 seconds without hearing the sound of her voice.” No need to dodge her anymore since this is our last shore landing.

The Sally lightfoot crabs are numerous and wear a riot of colors

Cold snorkeling is the norm

During lunch, the Endeavour sails from San Cristobal to Leon Dormido, a nearby landmark. Leon Dormido, which translates as “sleeping lion” in English, is most commonly called Kicker Rock for reasons I never learn. This isolated rock outcropping is actually the remains of a volcanic tuff cone that split into two towering pieces. The Endeavour anchors the National Park regulated distance from Kicker Rock, the last chance to snorkel in the Galapagos.

The water here is supposed to be more than 100 feet deep and filled with excellent marine life. I feel guilty about not snorkeling yet, but I’ve been waiting for a beach to snorkel with sea lions, perhaps the most popular Galapagos experience. Only a few days earlier I realized our itinerary doesn’t include the island best known for doing this.

So now, looking out at the rough seas and knowing how cold the water is, my decision about whether to snorkel today is simple. A good decision. Later, I learn several friends went into a panic from the cold and rough conditions and had to be hauled out of the water and brought back to the ship. Despite wearing wet suits, others who stick it out are freezing when they return,. A shivering woman apologizes “I’m going to use up all the ship’s hot water trying to get warm!”

A Bryde’s whale spouts near Leon Dormido; the crack in the landmark formation

It’s hard to say good-bye to the Galapagos

Late in the afternoon, the Endeavour lifts anchor and slowly moves toward Leon Dormido, which we are supposed to circumnavigate several times just prior to sunset. The late afternoon light is soft and luminous and most of the ship’s passengers are on deck. Suddenly, in the distance, we notice spray erupting from the sea. Bryde’s whales, the captain announces. What could be a better finale than this?

One whale breeches and another rolls only about 50 yards from the Endeavour’s bow. Just two people were lucky enough to catch the breaching action on camera and I wasn’t among them. But at least I was close enough to witness it all and catch a few frames of the animals.

That evening, Tim and I admit to each other we are not ready to leave the Galapagos just yet. We both wish we could stay on the ship for another week, especially since Lindblad’s Endeavour will visit an entirely new group of islands over the next seven days. It takes the Endeavour two weeks to circuit the Galapagos, so a one-week cruise is just part of the entire expedition.

Although we’ve seen scores of sea lions, hundreds of birds and at least a thousand marine iguanas, we’d be happy to see a lot more of them in next week’s settings.

A farewell look at our Galapagos home, Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Photographing Galapagos Tortoises in the Santa Cruz Highlands

Posted on January 13, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Highlands fences must be high enough for tortoises to crawl under

by Linda O’Keefe

Photographing giant tortoises in the wild

After our visit to the Los Gemelos craters, it’s back on the bus for what I hope is an exciting afternoon with giant Galapagos tortoises in the wild. Our Lindblad Endeavour naturalist for the afternoon, Walter Perez, doesn’t share my confidence. He continually cautions us “all we can guarantee you’ll see is lava rock and plenty of it.” Still, I’m optimistic we’ll find some giant tortoises without many problems.

Walter advises us how to track one of the huge tortoises in its natural environment: walk quietly through the forest, listening for sounds made by an 800 lb., five-foot long reptile as it flattens the underbrush in search for food. Fortunately, our search turns out to be incredibly easy.

After our bus turns onto a small winding dirt road and we head toward two small farm buildings in the distance, Walter excitedly points ahead of us. “Look there’s one–and there’s another! Oh boy, I can’t believe this!” Ahead of us, on both side of the road, are what look like large clumps of rock moving through tall grass just 10 to 15 yards from us.

Santa Cruz highland tortoises are Galapagos’ largest

We quickly climb out of the bus. Walter divides us into two groups, one to view the tortoises along the long road and the other to descend the hill behind the farm house. Tim decides to stay with the first group where he knows he can photograph tortoises. I decide to venture off with those going down the hill with Walter.

The slope is surprisingly steep but I glance in the distance to spot what look giant, gray pith helmets scattered across a field. The closer I get, the more I realize the enormity of these creatures. Santa Cruz Island with its humid, grass-rich highlands is home to the largest of all Galapagos Tortoises.

Tortoise walks along the edge of pond.

Different tortoise shell patterns inspired Charles Darwin

These have a domed shell and short neck unlike the tortoises in the dry lowlands with a saddleback shell and longer neck. When Charles Darwin visited the island the vice-governor told him he could tell which island a tortoise inhabited by looking at it. Darwin was astonished by this statement. Yetas he traveled from island to island he realized the shell patterns did vary from location to location. Those distinguishing features were one of the many facets that compelled Darwin toward his theory of natural selection and adaptation.

As impressed as I am with their size, the huge tortoises are not impressed with us at all. In fact, they seem truly oblivious to our presence, continuing to eat, drink and simply wander around. Their movements are slow and deliberate and their legs, feet and toes are enormous, resembling tree trunks with huge toenails. Each toenail is approximately the size of my fist. One tortoise walking through the field reminds me of an alligator back home in Florida as it “high walks” one leg at a time over the ground.

These feet are big!

Tortoises gather at a pond

As the tortoises shift to drink at a small pond covered with pink tiny flowers, I expect to see them drink with a cat-like behavior, lapping up the water. Instead, they barely open their lips as they gently suck in the water. The tortoises share their water hole with a several white-cheeked pintail ducks. We photographers are thrilled by the juxtaposition of the tiny ducks with the giant tortoises. We have an amazingly harmonious portrait of nature not often seen in the wild.

Tortoise sips water with grass still in its mouth

We have only a 45-minute window to photograph the tortoises and much too soon it’s time to return to the bus. My group lingers longer than we should, trying to get that last perfect shot. I could stay here for the rest of the day watching these magnificent creatures loll about but the time crunch is sounding.

As we walk up the hill, Walter comments, “You don’t know how lucky you are!” I leave with mixed feelings: lucky to have witnessed so many tortoises with perfect sunlight but also a little sad to know I probably will never have this kind of opportunity again.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Blog Links

Lindblad Endeavour Santa Cruz Highlands Tour

Posted on January 12, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

A triple header shore lunch

Before we set out to find Galapagos tortoises in the Santa Cruz highlands, the Lindblad Endeavour has an extended lunch break planned that is surprisingly varied. One stop I did not anticipate: a visit to a still–what we Southern boys would call a moonshine still–and the option to sample its product.

Here’s how it happened. From Puerto Ayora, we drive for 30 minutes into the highlands and stop at an old sugar estate called El Trapiche, Spanish for sugar mill. A local Galapaguenos family still works the property, with an older gentleman and a younger man turning the sugar cane press when we arrive. A donkey, on the other hand, is tethered to a fence off to the side taking what is probably a rare opportunity to relax.

El Trapiche sugar mill donkey; old fashioned sugar mill press

We are all invited to take a turn at the press and several fellow passengers step forward for what is fun for a few turns but would be a long harsh day for real. The long green sugar cane leaves roll through the press with the sugar juice spilling into a pail for processing into large cubes of natural brown sugar sold in the sugar mill gift shop. As we will discover, some of that cane juice will be used for making hootch, English word for cheap whiskey. That was not for sale.

Pounding the coffee beans

On the way to a shed to sample some of the sugar products we’re offered a brief demonstration of how coffee beans–also grown here–are pounded with a huge mortar and pestle. That may seem a strange thing to do with coffee beans but some connoisseurs consider pounding the coffee beans superior to grinding them since the powder from the pounded beans retains all the volatile oils, which give coffee its flavor. Heat–apparently produced through grinding–dissipates the volatile oils. (And that is the end of today’s informative lecture.)

El Trapiche electric sugar mill press; the spurts flames after a douse of moonshine

From the coffee grinding demo we enter a small shed and find a still operating. Obviously distilling your own drinking alcohol isn’t illegal here–as it wasn’t in the U.S. for most of its history–and the elderly gentleman is more than willing to waste his alcohol by throwing it on the still and having it blaze briefly for us to take photos.

Then with some slices of cheese we dip into a bowl of sweet molasses, a by-product of processing sugar cane. Fittingly, the word molasses comes from a Portuguese word for “honey.” This stuff is delicious. Then, an Endeavour guide I’ve rarely seen quickly points out several small bottles of moonshine that he invites us to sample. I’m one of the few interested. I went to graduate school in North Carolina where moonshine and grape juice was a favorite drink. This elixir has to be sampled straight without a mixer. Quite good. And, thankfully, not as potent as I feared.

The Altair Restaurant in the Santa Cruz highlands; pool at the restaurant

From lunch to the Los Gemelos craters

From the sugar mill, we go to a restaurant named Altair and dine on freshly grilled chicken and, if anyone was interested, take a swim just outside the restaurant. Or relax in one of the too few hammocks behind the pool.

The final stop of our triple-header lunch break is at a place called Los Gemelos, the twins, which are two huge craters formed by the collapse of a magma chamber. The craters, on opposite sides of the Puerto Ayora-Baltra road, are quite impressive. They look more like meteor impact craters than the results of some random ground collapse.

One of the Los Gemelos craters; a tree in the cloud forest around Los Gemelos

The walk from crater to crater leads us through a cloud forest called a scalesia forest filled with epiphytes, ferns and orchids. This endangered ecosystem also supposedly is rich with birdlife such as Darwin’s finches including the woodpecker finch and the rare vermillion flycatcher.

Too much sun?

Unfortunately, with the sun out for the first time all day, the forest and the branches are beautifully lighted. Maybe all that sun is bothering the birds because none of us–including our guides–can sight a single bird anywhere. The guides say this is unusual.

I can live with it. I just want the sun to stay out for our next stop where we hope to find giant tortoises in the wild. No wild creature can be relied on to appear where or when you expect it. We can hope we find them. Wildlife photography largely is based on hope.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Blog Links

National Geographic Endeavour Port Call: Puerto Ayora Walking Tour

Posted on January 10, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Your one & only Galapagos shopping stop

The stop at Santa Cruz Island by the Lindblad Expeditions’ National Geographic Endeavour is an unusually full, busy day. Following our tour of the Darwin Research Station and seeing Lonesome George and Diego, the station’s most famous tortoises, we’re given a little over an hour to tour the waterfront of Puerto Ayora, largest city in the Galapagos. With a population of more than 10,000, Puerto Ayora contains about a third of the islands’ total human population.

Leaving the Darwin Research Station, we turn right onto Avenida Charles Darwin, the port city’s main street which ends at a plaza where buses will take us to the highlands for the rest of the day. It soon becomes clear that almost all the businesses along the street are intended for tourists. Although I spot a few hotels, restaurants and dive shops along the route, they are overwhelmed by the surplus of t-shirt shops.

Not necessarily a bad thing since this is the first and our only real opportunity to shop for Galapagos and Ecuadorian souvenirs. One of the first places we encounter is the Galapagos National Park store, which has a huge selection but whose prices are 2-3X as much as the items at the small shop at the Darwin Research Station. Too bad the Darwin Station’s shop isn’t larger; its offerings are fairly limited.

Here’s a photo scrapbook of our Puerto Ayora walk.

Along Avenida Charles Darwin in Puerto Ayora

National park souvenir store solid as a rock; typical city souvenir store

Souvenir handmade dolls; city cemetery

Charles Darwin Arch, a major landmark on the outskirts of the city.

Shopping stop; mother & daughter on booby statue at Charles Darwin Arch park area

Marina with fishing boats; metal statue of a Galapagos tortoise

Outdoor café empty between breakfast & lunch; handicraft market sign

Candy-striped convenience store; yes, there is Internet!

Some stores really try to stand out; iguana statue across from water taxis

Pier to water taxis—and cruise ship Zodiacs—fronting Academy Bay

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Meeting “Lonesome George,” the World’s Rarest Tortoise

Posted on January 9, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Well, would you be happy to be the last of a rare species?

Poor old “Lonesome George”

When Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour anchors off Santa Cruz Island, we go ashore to see the world famous giant tortoise known as “Lonesome George.” As the last member of his species, he is considered the world’s rarest torotise.

Of the 15 different species of tortoise that once lived on 15 different islands of the Galapagos, three are now extinct. A fourth species is about to disappear.,

Lonesome George, estimated at 100 years old and considered in good health, is the last remaining member of the Pinta Island species. The Guinness World Records calls him the world’s “rarest living creature.” The very last of his kind. He supposedly was named after a popular 1950’s comedian, George Goebel, whose nickname was “Lonesome George.”

Considering the near extinction of the tortoises on Pinta Island, it’s hard to comprehend that giant tortoises were once commonplace throughout the world. They lived not only in the Americas but Europe and Asia, going back to the age of the dinosaurs. What depleted Lonesome George’s race is what killed off almost all the world’s giant tortoises.

Darwin Research Station Captive Breeding Sign

Giant tortoises lose out to invasive goats

Scientists say the huge tortoises of eons ago were unable to compete successfully with the many herbivores found on the continents. This is why today they exist only on isolated islands where they have no competition folr food.

Thanks to Charles Darwin’s writings, the Galapagos tortoises are the best known of the remaining giant tortoises. Yet they also survive on the islands of Madagascar and the Seychelles, both in the Indian Ocean.

The Galapagos, of course, owe their name to the giant tortoises, taken from the Spanish word Galápago meaning saddle. Saddleback tortoises aren’t as large or as impressive looking as the bell-shaped shells of animals like Lonesome George. The smaller saddlebacks, however, enjoy a shell shape that allows them to extend their necks higher to feed.

Saddlebacks tend to reside on islands with less vegetation compared to the bigger, dome-shaped tortoises. The larger torotises are still common on islands like Santa Cruz, where the vegetation is relatively rich.

Finding Lonesome George the right mate

Lonesome George is from Pinta Island, where the vegetation was decimated by introduced, goats. Like the giant tortoises that once thrived worldwide, those on Pinta Island were out-competed. After Lonesome George was found in 1971, it took 20 years to move him to the to the Darwin Research Station. The first breeding attempt was in 1993.

Lonesome George’s isolation cell. See any females? He doesn’t either.

George was provided with two female tortoises of different subspecies in an attempt to produce offspring. George and his revolving harem produced eggs but all to date have been infertile. Even if all the eggs did hatch technically the Pinta Island race still would be extinct once Lonesome George is gone. Any offspring would be of mixed, not pure, blood. (Shades of Lord Voldemort!)

$10,000 reward for Pinta Island female torotise

To preserve the Pinta Island subspecies, Lonesome George needs offspring from a Pinta Island female. A $10,000 reward is available to any zoo or private collector willing to provide a Pinta female for Lonesome George to mate. Nonehas been offered. Ironically, it is possible there is a second Pinta Island male tortoise slightly younger than George which lives in the Prague Zoo.

World renown tortoise expert Peter Pritchard considers the shell pattern of the Prague tortoise to be similar to that of George’s but no DNA tests have been conducted to confirm or refute the possibility. For the time being, rescuing the Pinta Island tortoise subspecies is at a stalemate that may never be resolved.

Tortoise eggs being incubated; tortoise breeding pen.

Meeting Lonesome George

Our walk from the Santa Cruz Zodiac to enter the Darwin Research Station and reach Lonesome George takes about 20 minutes. We pass several turtle pens where species from other islands are being effectively bred. Our view from an overlooking walkway into Lonesome George’s pen is depressing. He has a huge space to roam, able to hold scores of giant tortoises.

He looks so large compared to the females offered to entice him. No wonder George isn’t turned on by them. The pen itself seems to have everything a tortoise could want: lots of shade, vegetation and a huge concrete pond. From pictures I’ve seen of George on various web sites, he rarely leaves the pond’s edge.

Only a few steps away from Lonesome George is a crowded pen with an Espanola male tortoise named Diego. Far more energetic but lesser known, he is largely responsible for bringing back his island’s population.

How a tortoise named Diego revived his species

Only 15 tortoises remained on Espanola when the government began eradicating goats there. The entire population was brought to the Darwin Research Station in hopes of increasing their numbers. But an unexpected problem cropped up. All of the males refused to mate.

Diego, the studliest stud of Galapagos tortoises

The San Diego Zoo in California called the Darwin Research Station about a rogue Espanola male tortoise of theirs which was attacking all the other males. Did the Darwin Station want him? Yes, was the fateful answer. When this bully arrived, he was named Diego in honor of the zoo that donated him.

Diego promptly expended all his energy on the receptive females and quickly created a new generation of Espanola tortoises. Diego’s prowess inspired the formerly disinterested Espanola males. The resulting orgy sent more than 1,600 tortoises back to their homeland. Diego remains at the Darwin Station to continue his good work. He deserves a memorial, although I can’t think of a way it would be PG.

Does Lonesome George need sex education?

Meanwhile, Lonesome George is rarely interested, perhaps due to “low T” or maybe he just needs to be inspired (instructed?) as Diego’s buddies were. From what I see, George’s pen is cut off from all other turtle breeding pens.

He has no opportunity to see what is going on around him. He lives in splendid isolation–like someone being confined to a large mansion with his two women. Meanwhile, Diego and his crew are out having fun in their back yard.

George needs to be moved where he can watch Diego in action and get over his performance anxiety. Or performance ignorance. According to our Lindblad guides, they even played music to help inspire Diego. Well, show George some turtle porn. Do something to provide him the same type of motivation given to Diego, who was a bad boy and probably didn’t need it anyway.

Lonesome George is part of the Galapagos National Park logo

A cynic might say the Charles Darwin Foundation which operates the Charles Darwin Research Station deliberately keepis George lonesome and uninspired ito preserve him
as a powerful conservation symbol. Not only is George the Darwin Station’s most famous celebrity and its main attraction, he keeps both the Darwin Research Station and the Galapagos National Park in the public eye.

There can be no true happy ending to his saga without another Pinta Island female.

RIP

Lonesome George died June 24, 2012, without ever successfully mating. He was the last of his kind.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

National Geographic Endeavour Galapagos Dining Recipes

Posted on January 2, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Galapagos cruise food

I would swear that I took photos of some of these dishes on board the National Geographic Endeavour but I can’t find them. My bad!

Shortly before the cruise, Linda found out she was allergic to wheat products and needed to be gluten free. Among numerous other items, that really reduces the kinds of bread you can eat. During the voyage, we met some people who also needed to be gluten-free and especially for them the kitchen is making cassava bread. Linda and I both try it. Where has this been all our lives?

Linda asks Edison, the always helpful dining room manager, if she can be added to the cassava bread list. We have it for breakfast every morning from then on. That’s how accommodating things are in Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic Endeavour dining room.

Cassava Bread/Pan de Yucca

Ingredients:
2 cups   Cassava flour (Yucca or manioc)
2 cups   Grated mozzarella cheese
2   Egg yolks
4 Tbsp.   Butter
Salt to taste

Preparation:
1) Mix all ingredients until consistent and firm in order to form the dough.
2) Form little buns and let them rest for about 10 minutes.
3) Preheat oven at 375 F.
4) On a buttered pan place the buns and put it in the oven for 20-25 minutes until the tops are golden.
______________

Brazilian Xim-Xim Soup

This is a wonderful soup but the recipe makes enough for all the diners at lunch. So, I would suggest you make one-tenth of what the recipe calls for. By the way, this recipe took almost an hour to translate the ingredient measurements (such as a “taza” of this or that).

Ingredients:

Group 1
1 cup   Butter
4 cups   Pearl onion finely cut
4 cups   Red onion, Cubed
4 cups Green & red peppers, cubed
6 Tbl   Garlic, finely cut
1 cup   Ginger, finely cut

Group 2
4 cups   Tomatoes (Skinless & finely cut)
2 cups   Canned tomatoes
16 cups Chicken broth
1 Tsp.   Turmeric
½ Tsp. Cheyenne

Group 3
11 lbs. Fish (wahoo), cubed
1.4 cups Coconut , toasted
1.7 cups Macadamia nuts, toasted
6 cups Coconut milk

Preparation
1) Toast coconut and macadamia nuts in oven until golden brown.
2) Sautee ingredients of Group 1 in butter.
3) Add all ingredients of Group 2 and simmer at low temp for
about 15 min.
4) Just prior to serving the soup, bring to a boil. Add Group 3, stirring
well until the coconut milk is dissolved. Cook until the fish is done

Salt & pepper to taste
________________

Carrot and Ginger Soup
Serves 10

This is a simple soup that anyone who likes carrots and ginger (one of my favorite spices). This also is an easy recipe to reduce from 10 servings to five.

Ingredients:

10   Carrots
1/3 cup   Ginger
1-1 /2 qt   Chicken stock
1 cup   Onions, chopped
1 cup   Whipping cream
1/4 cup Scallions chopped
1/2 cup Parsley
3.50z   Butter

Preparation:
1) Boil carrots until tender. Puree with hand held mixer or food processor.
2) Sauté pureed carrots with onions, ginger and butter.
3) Add chicken stock and bring to a boil for 30 minutes .
4) After carrots are cooked, liquefy through a strainer, return to pot and bring to a boil.
5) Lower heat to medium and add whipping cream, parsley. Salt & pepper to taste.
_____________

Chocolate Decadence
For 12 people

I know there are photos of the Chocolate Decadence somewhere and when I find them I will add them and tweet their appearance. Again, this recipe needs to be cut for 4-6 people rather than the 12 this recipe covers. Add vanilla ice cream.

Ingredients:

11   Eggs
1 lb.   Semi-sweet chocolate
1-1/2 cups   Butter
1 cup   Vegetable oil
1 cup   Sugar

Preparation:

1) Melt together the chocolate, butter and oil, and let it sit until warm.
2) Beat the eggs with the sugar until the mix has become thick. Put it on low
heat for a couple of minutes and combine half of this mix with the melted
chocolate. Combine it slowly, and add the rest of the eggs.
3) Put it in the oven for approximately 20 minutes (350 degrees) When you take
it out of the oven the cake will be a little wet; put it in the refrigerator over
night or at least two hours.
4) Before serving you can pour on Grand Marnier or any kind of liquor on
top along with whipped cream, some chocolate sprinkles and raspberry coulis.

These recipes are a small sample why it can be so difficult to leave the Lindblad Endeavour’s dining room behind. Not saying I wouldn’t have liked a hamburger or pizza at some point during the week. However, Linda and I always like to try new foods. And bring back recipes and see which ones we can incorporate into our lives. Cassava bread is the highest on our priority list. As for the Chocolate Decadence, that will be treat for friends when we can be sure there won’t be any leftovers. I need to lose weight.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Jet Blue’s inaugural Dominican Republic arrival is a memorable one

El Limon is one of Samana’s most popular attractions

Young guides and sturdy horses

Trail’s End

The climb down on foot to reach the falls

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RIP The Senator

Arsonist took photos of burning tree

The Senator gets bigger fence after being set afire

The only protection afforded The Senator was a metal fence around its base. . . an obviously useless safeguard.

Live vs inanimate objects

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Probably a victim of arson

Arson seems most likely cause of fire

Did a lightning rod fail?

The spontaneous combustion theory theorizes that the few ancient limbs on the tree because were waving back and forth, creating friction, and thus the fire. Since the limbs were stubs and there was no great wind storm that night, an alien laser might make more sense. Offical cause of death: UNKNOWN

Protecting Lady Liberty

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A day of amazing contrasts

Looking for birds by Zodiac

Punta Pitt beach landing

Cold snorkeling is the norm

It’s hard to say good-bye to the Galapagos

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Photographing giant tortoises in the wild

Santa Cruz highland tortoises are Galapagos’ largest

Different tortoise shell patterns inspired Charles Darwin

Tortoises gather at a pond

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A triple header shore lunch

Pounding the coffee beans

From lunch to the Los Gemelos craters

The walk from crater to crater leads us through a cloud forest called a scalesia forest filled with epiphytes, ferns and orchids. This endangered ecosystem also supposedly is rich with birdlife such as Darwin’s finches including the woodpecker finch and the rare vermillion flycatcher.

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Your one & only Galapagos shopping stop

Along Avenida Charles Darwin in Puerto Ayora

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Poor old “Lonesome George”

Giant tortoises lose out to invasive goats

Finding Lonesome George the right mate

Meeting Lonesome George

The San Diego Zoo in California called the Darwin Research Station about a rogue Espanola male tortoise of theirs which was attacking all the other males. Did the Darwin Station want him? Yes, was the fateful answer. When this bully arrived, he was named Diego in honor of the zoo that donated him.

Does Lonesome George need sex education?

There can be no true happy ending to his saga without another Pinta Island female.

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Galapagos cruise food

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The spontaneous combustion theory theorizes that the few ancient limbs on the tree because were waving back and forth, creating friction, and thus the fire. Since the limbs were stubs and there was no great wind storm that night, an alien laser might make more sense.
Offical cause of death: UNKNOWN