Married Middle Name Difference Causes Cruise ID Nightmare

Posted on December 12, 2014 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

By Linda O’Keefe

Passing through immigration in Stockholm, I can finally relax. I’ve arrived at our departure port so no more worry about being denied boarding by an airline. My concern? The full name on my passport is different from the full name on both my flight reservations and the Oceania cruise manifest. This inconsistency is my middle name. It’s partly due to the conflicting ID requirements on the state and federal levels, a situation many married women may encounter when they travel internationally.

Passport name vs maiden name

A woman’s U.S. passport is supposed to have her middle birth name. My Florida driver license usses my maiden name for my middle name. That is due to the marriage license requirements in the county where we were married. It requires a woman to use her maiden name for her middle name.

I’ve had to work around this ID contradiction ever since when it comes to overseas travel. Men are lucky. They never deal with this problem since their names usually remain the same for life.

Obviously I should have booked the cruise under my “passport name” as I usually do, not my “Florida name.” For my flights overseas, I wondered if I would be able to use my tickets. The airlines and TSA also woul;d expect my airline tickets to match my passport. Overlooking this mistake until the last-minute is inconceivable. It puts me in a great panic about whether I will be denied boarding in Orlando or Newark going to Europe or on my flights coming back.

Will I ever get out of here, Orlando International Airport?

My first call was to our travel agent. She says she can’t make ticket changes since Oceania issued them. And Oceania probably can’t make a name change at this point but if it did a new ticket likely would come with severe penalties. Worse, she indicates it’s unlikely I’ll be able to board any flights. Her suggestion is that I call the different airlines to report my problem and check the TSA website. But there are no guarantees these steps will get me on an airplane.

This is turning into a horror story. I call TSA and encounter a recorded message with more options than toothpaste brands at a grocery store. Eventually I speak with a real person, a woman who asks my name. Then I hear only computer keys clicking. Her next question: “Where are your flights going to?” I reply “Orlando to La Guardia (incorrect) to Stockholm.” Silence again on the line. Then, “Mrs. O’Keefe, you are flying United to Newark (she caught my error) and then SAS to Stockholm on August 20 and returning British Airways from Amsterdam to Gatwick and BA Gatwick to Orlando on September 4th.” Now it is my turn to be silent. She knows all this better than I do because of just my name? Good to know the government can be on top of something as small as this so quickly.

The TSA call is the smartest thing I could have done. The TSA representative is extremely helpful and informative, assuring me this was not a big deal and that it happens all the time. Her advice is to carry my Florida driver license, my social security card and a copy of my Florida marriage license with my passport to show as much ID as possible.

Will flying to Euope even be possible?

Checking in at Orlando International, a woman at the United counter immediately questions the middle name differences. I’m ready, full of explanations and a fistful of documents. The problem quickly disappears when a supervisor is called: a female supervisor. What luck! She has the same middle name problem and is questioned about it sometimes at OIA—where she works. We’re part of the same sorority!

I receive boarding passes for both Orlando to Newark and for Newark to Stockholm. The tickets are stamped with the notation my documents are checked. Ironically, and happily, my home airport is the only place on our entire trip over where the middle name problem comes up. I could not stop worrying about be turned back until I board the Oceania Marina.

Once on board, I’m given my official ship ID card–which carries no middle name. That’s more than convenient. It means I will have no problem in St. Petersburg where I must pass through Russian immigration and show my passport and ship ID card each time I leave and return to the ship.

In the 13 or 14 years Tim and I have traveled together internationally, this never was a problem. It came up only now because four years ago we were married. Thus, it’s all his fault!

Tim: Linda and I both wrote this post together and I am responsible for much of it. I also wrote the last sentence. I am the guilty party who made the reservations using her driver’s license and not her passport. But she should have noticed my mistake at the time.

Tim & Linda: A learning experience for us both and this silly mistake won’t be repeated. All international bookings will carry Linda’s passport name, her middle birth name. Thanks, State of Florida, for all the confusion.

Oceania Marina Baltic Cruise An Easy Choice

Posted on November 23, 2014 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Song and Dance Ensemble of the Russian Army, St. Petersburg

It’s been too long since Linda and I cruised (or blogged) so last January we began looking at cruise itineraries. The Oceania Marina 12-day summer Northern Europe Viking Trails itinerary appealed immediately to us but especially to me since it includes three full days in St. Petersburg, Russia. Having visited St. Petersburg twice decades ago, I’m interested to see how much it’s changed after the end of the Soviet era. For whatever reason, Russia is a long-time fascination. My first visit there was is in the 1970’s U.S.-Soviet Cold War era with four more trips over the years.

In addition to St. Petersburg, other interesting Marina stops include out-of-the-way ports in Estonia, Lithuania and Poland along with Helsinki, Copenhagen and a German port convenient to Berlin. It ends with an overnight in Amsterdam. Oceania is one of our favorite cruise lines but the price quoted in January seems a bit too high.

Linda and I always are interested in anything new Oceania offers. We have a long history with them, going back to its previous incarnation when it was known as Renaissance Cruises. The first cruise Linda and I ever made together was on one of the 684-passenger “R Ships.” That was in the spring of 2001, just months before Renaissance went under due to the 9/11 Twin Towers attack, when all their ships were stationed in Europe. It was a sad ending to a wonderful cruise line.

We scan the promotional materials Oceania sends at regular intervals, as new features are added to the Vikings Trails end of season cruise. Now included are free shore excursions for all three days in St. Petersburg ($1,000 value), prepaid gratuities, free unlimited internet in our stateroom and a $300 on-board ship credit to use for whatever we want.

When Oceania offers the option to upgrade round trip air to premium economy for just $198 from Orlando, we’re ready to book. Oceania always includes round trip air in its cruise prices and we’d be crazy not to use it. It costs us $850 to use Oceania’s air package. The best online economy flight rates for our itinerary would cost two to three times that amount. Premium economy would be considerably more.

We decide to treat ourselves to an early wedding anniversary and go concierge class, which allows us first choice of the St. Petersburg tours and early reservations in the Marina’s five specialty restaurants. Unlike most cruise lines, Oceania does not demand an extra charge for its specialty restaurants; only advance reservations required. The Marina is one of Oceania’s new ships, almost twice the size of the original “R-Ships” and carrying 1,250 passengers. It will be interesting to see how much of an improvement this new class size is over the smaller vessels.

Klaipedia, Lithuania, located on the Dane River

Oceania books our flights, not our travel agent, and the itinerary is a surprisingly good one. We fly from Orlando to Newark with a layover of under three hours before taking Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) to Stockholm, our departure port. The return flight from Amsterdam takes us to London Gatwick and another short layover with a direct flight back to Orlando. The schedule is fine though we wish we could avoid the United Airlines flight to Newark since it wants $100 for a second bag. Especially since our other carriers, SAS and British Airways, both allow two free bags. We’re extending our trip for several days in Amsterdam after the cruise, so packing at least one extra bag for the two of us is kind of necessary.

When we check in at Orlando International we encounter the usual summer crowds that often increase TSA screening lines to 30 minutes. Unexpectedly, our tickets send us to the TSA fast-track lines, which proceed quickly. This is one of the benefits of premium economy class.

Arriving at Newark, we look forward to boarding the SAS overnight flight to Stockholm. Our only previous premium economy experience was on Air New Zealand from Los Angeles to Auckland and that truly was something special. Premium economy had its own cabin, comfortable space age style seats and meal service better than the business class of some other carriers. Descriptions of SAS Premium Plus appear equally appealing.

The SAS flight begins impressively. During takeoff, SAS allows us to watch the takeoff from different views on our personal TV screens. I watch the takeoff starting from the cockpit view, switch to a rear angle as we lift off the runway and then look straight down at the area we fly over. Very nice touch. The selection of recent American movies is good, too.

Windmill in Holland

But about an hour after takeoff, the SAS Premium Plus experience is not so pleasant. The seat bottom lacks any kind of padding, assuming it ever had any. It’s extremely uncomfortable. Linda says she feels like she’s sitting on a concrete slab. In addition, I find it impossible to maneuver my legs around the large left leg on the seat in front of me. That support blocks almost half of the normally available legroom, leaving no way to stretch my legs, much less place my laptop under the seat without on Linda’s leg space. I’m convinced the design engineers never tested this arrangement in real life conditions.

The evening meal choices are chicken with plain white rice or salmon with plain white rice. They’re just as bland as they sound. The run-of-the-mill airline salad, rice entrée and dessert come clustered together on the usual typical economy tray. This is nothing like SAS’ classy website description: “For dinner, there is a starter, main course (choose between two alternatives) & a good dessert with coffee or tea.” The accompanying photos are equally misleading

For the first time ever on a flight, I’m unable to sleep. Normally I can fall asleep on a bus, train and every airline until now. A mild sleeping pill doesn’t block the pain of my lead-lined seat. I read my Kindle until breakfast. Would have liked to have read SAS in-flight magazine but my overhead reading light is out. Stewardess said she would report it. Linda squirms in her seat much of the time. She also is awake most of the night.

Landing in Stockholm, and shuffling like zombies, we gladly leave SAS Premium Plus behind. We’re more than ready for our next stop. The Oceania Marina and its usual flavorful welcome aboard lunch buffet.

Dining on the National Geographic Endeavour

Posted on April 13, 2014 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Classic Spanish paella with shellfish but no shrimp

Sustainability may guide the ship’s dining choices—but yum!

Lindblad Expeditions takes its dedication to conservation seriously, extending it even to the National Geographic Endeavour’s dining room. Although seafood is a staple on the ship’s menus, you’ll never find a shrimp cocktail, fried shrimp or shrimp of any sort. Lindblad banned shrimp from its kitchens more than a decade ago, in the summer of 2001 as part of its sustainable dining program to help preserve fish stocks worldwide.

Lindblad says it could not find any shrimp suppliers who could prove that their shrimp harvesting methods did not damage the marine environment. One of the serious problem shrimp trawlers create is the “bycatch” of unwanted fish species that end up being killed and thrown away. And in some areas the trawlers may sweep the same section of sea bottom several times a year, which leaves no time for re-growth or recovery of the marine habitat.

No shrimp allowed

Shrimp farming also has serious negative impact because shrimp growers have made their pond water poisonous due to the large amounts of artificial feed, pesticides, chemical additives and antibiotics used for the highest possible production rate. Typically, the ponds are located in coastal areas to provide easy access to new fresh water sources to refill them. Unfortunately, instead of reducing pressure on overharvesting, shrimp aquaculture’s toxic effluent is blamed for reducing local shrimp and fish populations in some regions

When it comes to the fish served on board the Endeavour and other Lindblad ships, they are species considered not to be over-fished or caught by environmentally destructive practices. Lindblad Expeditions is not extremist in its sustainability approach. According to Ocean Wise, a Canadian non-profit education and conservation association, an estimated 90 percent of all large, predatory fish have disappeared from the world’s oceans. It states that one recent scientific study predicts a world-wide fisheries collapse by the year 2048. Obviously, this is a topic that impacts all of us and one we all should be concerned about.

Placing the serious aspects of the Lindblad Endeavour’s menu aside, as you’ll see from the accompanying photos and the week’s menus on accompanying pages, no one starves. There is a serious emphasis on flavorful food, although the preparations are not always ones we have every day or perhaps ever have had before. But trying new foods always has been an essential part of travel. The menu emphasizes Ecuadorian cuisine, as you would expect.

Here are some sample signs that are posted to explain unfamiliar dishes:

Lindblad Expeditions does try to cater to the diverse tastes of its passengers. The photo at the top of this post shows paella served once a week at lunch that definitely would not suit vegetarians. So, a vegetarian paella is served at the same meal.

This kind of catering is routine on large cruise ships. But the Endeavour carries fewer than100 passengers. Below is a photo of the vegetarian paella. .

Vegetarian paella, a rice dish from Valencia, Spain

See for yourself what the dining on the Lindblad National Geographic Endeavor is like. You won’t be disappointed, I promise you. If I didn’t like it, I say so. But I do wish that just one time during the week there was an option for a hamburger with all the trimmings. But maybe that was just me.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Grazing Auckland New Zealand – SKYCITY Visual Restaurant Menus

Posted on March 19, 2014 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

SKYCITY Restaurants dine by Peter Gordon and The Grill by Sean Connolly
are world-class dining experiences. See their menus in photos.

At precisely 1076 feet and 1.38 inches (328 m), the Sky Tower not only is the tallest man-made structure in New Zealand it also is one of Auckland’s signature attractions. The Sky Tower also marked the location of SKYCITY Auckland, a casino-hotel complex with 25 cafes, restaurants and bars.

This visual menu is from the SKYCITY Grand Hotel’s restaurant called “dine by Peter Gordon.” The word dine certainly deserves to be in all caps at this award-winning restaurant featuring a mix of Asian, Pacific and traditional European cuisine. This is a true fine dining experience and one not to be rushed.

dine by Peter Gordon Visual Menu

Appetizers (or “entrees” as they’re called in NZ)

Seared yellowfin tuna with nori sauce, crispy squid, wakame salad and wasabi jelly

Crispy free-farmed pork belly and smoked mackerel fritter with lemon,
coriander, bean sprout, cherry tomato, macadamia salad and lime dressing

Roast Cambridge duck breast with green beans, caramelized
shallots, smoked eggplant, beetroot relish, pastille of five-spiced confit
duck leg and chestnuts

Main Course

7-hour braised Firstlight grass-fed wagyu short rib with
eggplant, shitake mushroom, salad and toasted almonds

Dessert

Valrhona Guanaja 70% chocolate terrine topped by lemongrass ice cream
with pistachio white chocolate mousse, popping candy, manuka honey crisp

The Grill by Sean Connolly Visual Menu

The Grill by Sean Connolly is another excellent restaurant at the SKYCITY Grand Hotel. More casual than dine, the menu is just as delicious and memorable. The emphasis here is on fresh local foods with the natural flavors allowed to shine through.

Seafood Entrees

This seafood appetizer for four is a meal in itself: Queensland prawns,
Cloudy Bay clams, king crab claws, scampi and oysters. Single servings
also available.

Queensland prawns with garlic butter and pesto. We should have stopped
right here.

Main Course

XXX

There should be a picture above of a 1-1/2 inch dry aged savannah Angus rib eye on the bone. I tried to arrange this great piece of cow into a more
photogenic position but made the mistake of cutting into and tasting the rib eye
while doing it. The results were not pretty or suitable for public viewing. The rib eye, however, was magnificent and you have my word –if not my photo—attesting to that.

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Nickelodeon Suites Resort – Let It Snow and SLIME Drop

Posted on December 11, 2013 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Entrance to Nickelodeon Suites Resort, Orlando

How Nickelodeon Suites Resort Celebrates Christmas and New Year’s

Orlando’s Nickelodeon Suites Resort holiday salute begins it holiday celebrations with Let It Snow, held on weekends and select weeknights. The event starts at 6 p.m. with the opening of the Oasis Pool, closed during the day because of the Christmas tree at one end and lighted snow flake decorations hanging next to the pool.

It’s kind of a neat experience to go swimming then, with a blue-white light bathing the pool and snowflakes falling occasionally near the Christmas tree. No danger of getting chilly from the snowflakes: they’re actually bubbles.

Nick celebrates Christmas with an 84-degree pool

Lasting until 9 p.m., Nick characters such as SpongeBob SquarePants appear several times (along with humans) to dance and pose for pictures. Fire pits near the pool are ready for those hungry for S’mores but don’t make the mistake of waiting in line to use the fire pit unless you’ve already purchased the S’mores ingredients sold at the pool. Yes, it would be nice if they were free but it’s also easy to see how that could get out of hand with a big crowd.

Santa Claus also makes personal appearances either at the Oasis Pool or Studio Nick, based on the daily program everyone receives at hotel check-in.

Around 8:30 the festivities start at Studio Nick with a performance of Celebrate Nickmas, a high energy song and dance show that includes SpongeBob and Dora the Explorer. It’s a good idea to get in line 20 to 30 minutes before the show if you want to sit near the stage. At the end of the show, Santa Claus appears for individual photos with children in front of an elaborate Christmas background. Nick Resort photographers snap everyone’s picture in hopes of selling them but family members are given free reign to take their own. A much appreciated opportunity it is, too.

Dora the Explorer and friend at Nickmas

But if you want your child to meet Santa, you must make advance reservations, which also assures you seats at the show. Those who show up without reservations are let in on a space available basis but aren’t given a place in line to meet Santa. It’s easy to make a reservation.

New Year’s Eve will be celebrated by Nick Resort’s annual SLIME Drop where 400 gallons of the green sticky goo is dropped on revelers to create what undoubtedly is the messiest pool party anywhere that night. Before the great sliming, the year is ushered out with pool activities including a Dive In Movie, DJ Splash Bash, live entertainment and a Champagne or Slimeade toast.

At the moment, special Nickmas Packages are being offered but not the kind you expect from a hotel. Instead of selling anything, this is a package with room and other discounts. Could be a good deal but also compare the price options on the hotel website and sites like Kayak.com to see the best prices on different rooms.

As you might expect, the New Year’s SLIME Drop experience does cost extra. The party gives a good reason to look green for once on January 1.

To A Weekend at Orlando’s Nickelodeon Suites Resort

Nickelodeon Suites Resort–Orlando’s Best Kids Resort?

Posted on December 11, 2013 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

The Lagoon Pool, center of most of the action.

Nickelodeon Suites Resort Impresses Young Theme Park Pro

After spending the weekend at Nickelodeon Suites Resort with our 5-year old granddaughter, I’m convinced the Nick Hotel is probably Orlando’s best resort for youngsters 5-12 years. The almost non-stop daytime activity is well coordinated so there’s always something to look forward to, including frequent appearances by such iconic Nick characters as SpongeBob SquarePants, Dora the Explorer and the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. And the slides and flumes at the Lagoon Pool water park are ready and waiting throughout the afternoons.

Our granddaughter Harper may be only 5 but she’s a theme park pro. She started visiting Disney World regularly at the age of 2 and has been to all the other major theme parks at least once and frequently more. With that kind of background, we didn’t expect such an enthusiastic reaction when she first enters our suite.

“Look–SpongeBob is painted on the wall!” Harper shrieked happily. “I have a SpongeBob bedroom!” The cartoon art not only makes her excited but it’s also a little overwhelming. Later, when she turns on the TV in her room, the channel is tuned to the Ninja Turtles on Nick TV. She immediately starts imitating their moves, watching intently to copy them perfectly. Harper is in her own happy world.

Shake hands or not?

Real life Sponge Bob is too much!

However, SpongeBob-in-person proves to be a little overwhelming Saturday morning at a special meet and greet with the famous cartoon character. Normally very gregarious, Harper is intimidated when she comes face to face with the famous TV star. It takes a lot of coaxing to have her stand next to the big yellow kitchen sponge and pose for a picture.

A short time later we attend the Nicktoons Cafe character breakfast where SpongeBob and the other Bikini Bottom characters put on a show. Afterwards, they meander among the tables. It’s a harmless dance and hardly aggressive but Harper again finds it all a little overpowering. She’s never been able to spend so much time up close with the characters at Disney or anywhere else.

Even though the Café dining room is full, the characters remain surprisingly accessible for pictures and–thankfully–without the hassle of contending with a resort photographer wanting to sell us a picture. In fact, at all character events, family members are almost always given ample time to take as many photos as they want even when a Nick Hotel photographer is present; it makes the experience a lot more pleasant. (Framed photos start at $16.95 with additional 5×7’s at $10 each. Better prices than some theme parks.)

Dining options at Nickelodeon Resorts

The buffet’s offerings are complete enough to satisfy even Harper’s finicky food likes. The character buffet ($24 adults, $14 ages 4-12) is impressive, more than I expect: various cheeses, sliced European breakfast meats, trays of pastas, fresh fruit, smoked salmon, tuna fish salad, eggs to order including Eggs Benedict, breakfast burrito, bacon, sausage, corned beef hash, cereals, yogurts, bagels, donut holes, muffins croissants, cherry blintzes and more than I care to write down or remember.

Slime time at the Lagoon Pool

Afterwards, it’s time to introduce Harper to the Lagoon Pool and its water park rides. Harper attacks the rides with enthusiasm. Although the air temps are only in the high 70’s, the large pool stays a comfortable 84 degrees as does the water flowing through the seven different slides and flumes. The rides start at different levels of a four-story water tower also featuring climbing nets, water jets and a 400-gallon dump tank, which dumps occasionally throughout the day. In the afternoon, during the special Mass Sliming, it pours a lot of slime-colored water on eager bathers ready to turn green.

Slime is a famous Nickelodeon trademark dating back to a 1982 TV show You Can’t Do That On Television. Although sliming opportunities are frequent, you may have to pay a charge to participate. The only times and place we witness sliming is at the Lagoon Pool during special events.

Now it’s live Ninja Turtles

Harper proves she’s over her “fear of characters” on Saturday evening after we walk by the entrance of the Nicktoons Café, which is featuring Ninja Turtles character dining. Linda glances through the door and notices it’s almost empty. “People have left their masks on the tables. If they don’t want one, maybe I can get one.” Why not, it never hurts to ask.

She enters the dining room and asks for a red mask like the one worn by Raphael, Harper’s favorite Ninja turtle. Linda returns with one, reporting, “They couldn’t have been nicer.” The mask is really nothing more than a red strip with eyeholes but exactly like the turtles wear. To Harper, it’s a priceless possession.

As we start to leave, a Ninja in black with red eyes but no mask suddenly appears, ready to pose for photos. We tie the mask on Harper, who rushes eagerly to meet the Ninja figure.

No fear!

That night, Harper doesn’t wear the mask to bed but sleeps with it clutched beside her. Even for this young theme park pro, something so simple is incredibly special. Like the rest of everything she experienced that weekend.

IF YOU GO

Orlando’s Nickelodeon Suites Hotel, the only one in the world, is a huge property with 777 rooms covering 24 acres. The all-suites hotel includes one to three bedrooms, kitchenettes and TVs in the living room and each bedroom. Our two bedroom SpongeBob suite included a master bedroom with a king bed and a separate kids bedroom (without a door) containing bunk beds. The living room sofa was a pullout, so the room could have accommodated six. The kitchenette had a microwave and mini fridge but no dishes or silverware; bring your own if you intend to make meals during your stay.

Which you might want to do. Nickelodeon Suites Resort has limited dining options. They are housed in the main activity area known as The Mall which definitely could use another restaurant for anyone spending all their time at the hotel. Breakfast has the most choices with either a character breakfast at the Nicktoons Café or dining at the breakfast-only Main Buffet ($11.95). The Mall’s food court has a Subway (offers breakfast subs), Cravings which features Starbucks but not much food and Antonio’s Pizza, which also serves burgers, hot dogs and chicken sandwiches. The two hotel pools also have their own grill restaurant that close at 5. Selections are sparse on Saturday evenings when Nicktoons Café offers only character dining; pizza and burgers do become monotonous. .

The hotel provides transportation to all the major theme parks as part of the $30 daily mandatory resort use fee added on top of the room cost. Although I dislike any resort use fee, it may be worth it this time since it also covers free admission to live shows and entertainment, the two water parks, wireless room internet, unlimited local telephone calls and free parking. Just the parking at some theme park hotels is $17 a day.

To: Nickelodeon Suites Resort Holiday Celebrations

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Dominican Republic Humpback Whale Watching

Posted on February 25, 2013 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Samana Whale Watching-1

Surprising Fact: Dominican Whale Watching Easier and Better Than Alaska.

Riding the top deck of a 45-foot whale watching boat hunting for humpback whales in the Bay of Samana, I keep comparing the Dominican Republic landscape with that of another famous whaling ground: Alaska. From a considerable distance, the Samana coastline appears heavily forested with row after row of terraced trees rising above the shoreline. To me, this unbroken canopy mimics the uninhabited, isolated regions of the far north.

Making comparisons to Alaska is inevitable since whale watching is one of the state’s best-known attractions. Yet the odds of seeing humpbacks are actually better here in the Dominican Republic. The Bay of Samana is one of the whale’s most important breeding and calving grounds, with between 2,000 and 3,000 of the giant mammals migrating here each January.

Humpback whales come to Samana to mate and calve each spring

A naturalist explains over the boat’s crackling loudspeaker that the whales move south for calving season because a newborn humpback—even though it weighs close to a ton–lacks enough fat to survive in the cold waters of the North Atlantic.

The adults stay in the DR’s warm waters until the calves are fit to travel, which begins around the middle to the end of March. From Samana, the humpbacks return to their summer feeding grounds located between North America, Greenland and Iceland.
Samana is central to the whales’ reproductive cycle. Since humpbacks have a gestation period of about a year, the calves now being born in the Bay of Samana are probably the result of the previous season’s mating.

Atlantic humpback whales are dark on top, white underneath.

As the boat narrator points out, the Bay of Samana is only one area of the Dominican Republic where the humpbacks winter but it is the most accessible place for whale watching. He claims that at the moment virtually every humpback whale from the western North Atlantic—whose home waters are from 2,000 to 4,000 distant from Samana–is now lounging somewhere around the Dominican Republic.

Are all humpbacks really Dominicans?

This information deeply impresses Nina, a 10-year old Dominican girl seated next to me. Tightly hugging her most important possession, a bright pink knapsack featuring the famous blonde-haired Barbie, Nina is amazed to hear that humpbacks have traveled thousands of miles to have their babies in her homeland.

“Are the baby whales born here Dominicans, too, just like me?” she asks the boat’s narrator.

He has to think about that. “Yes, I guess you could say that,” he answers. “And that means all the humpback whales in our part of the world are Dominicans, too, since they were all born somewhere near the Dominican Republic.”

Nina smiles and hugs her Barbie knapsack tighter. For the moment, she doesn’t seem to care if she even sees a whale today.

Waiting for humpbacks to appear

The other 60 passengers with her do. We’re all becoming antsy. Normally, whales would be sighted by now, but we have high rolling seas, which makes spotting more difficult. More and more of us are imagining tail flukes and waterspouts in the tossing white froth.

When the first genuine whale spout finally is sighted, there’s no dramatic “Thar she blows,” just a huge collective sigh of relief.

Two humpback whales surface near our boat.

Humpbacks are known as the most playful of all whales, which has me hoping that at least one of the animals will breach, or jump skyward. Although it doesn’t happen this day, a succession of whales entertains us thoroughly as they roll on their sides, wave their flukes, or flip their massive tails skyward when they sound.

Several times we are almost eye to eye with a humpback whale, which is classified only as a medium-sized whale. They grow from 30 to 50 feet in length with the largest weighing as much as 29 tons, or 58,000 pounds. They are almost tiny compared to the blue whale, the largest creature on earth. The largest known blue whale was 110 feet long and weighed 209 tons, or a whopping 418,000 pounds.

Drifting among goliaths

But on our 45-foot boat, the humpbacks are goliath enough. As we drift within 20 to 30 yards of a large adult, I’m close enough to start counting the fleshy knobs (called tubercles) on the whale’s massive head, so big it takes up more than a third of a humpback’s body. In the clear water, I can easily distinguish the body color; black on top and white on the bottom.

We end up spending less than an hour of our three-hour trip with the whales but I am well satisfied. I’ve seen more humpbacks in Samana and gotten closer to them than I ever have on several Alaskan trips. And in Samana I do it on a bright sunny day where the wintertime temperature always hovers somewhere in the 80s. I can’t ask for more.

Well, maybe a breach or two. But I’m told later, that almost never happens with humpbacks in Samana. Perhaps because all their energy is concentrated on mating.

You can choose between large and small whale watching boats.

If you go Samana whale watching

Whale Samana is considered one of Samana’s most reputable whale watching operators. In fact, owner Kim Beddall pioneered whale watching here in 1990. And if you don’t see whales, your next trip is free.

The 55-foot custom whale watching vessel Pura Mia carries up to 65 passengers. A marine mammal specialist narrates and answers questions on every trip. Narration is done in English and Spanish with interpreters available on board. Dramamine tablets supplied on request. (Yes, the Bay of Samana does get rough sometimes).

Their trip schedule makes it obvious the best whale watching is the end of February. Beginning January 15 tours depart once a day at 10 a.m. Twice daily departures sometimes are offered during the high season. Check the schedule. Tours continue until the end of March. The Pura Mia leaves from the Samana town dock, with pickup for those staying at Cayo Levantado scheduled 30 minutes after the boat departs Samana city, officially known as Santa Barbara de Samana.

Go big or small

Virtually all the large whale watching boats depart the Samana town dock, while smaller and faster craft leave either from there or locations outside the city. A small boat may not be what you want for high seas but on calm days they could be perfect.

Samana has established strict whale watching regulations to prevent boats from crowding the animals. Like all celebrities, humpbacks prefer to be left alone.

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Horseback Ride To Samana’s El Limon Waterfall, Dominican Republic

Posted on January 27, 2013 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Riders on the El Limon waterfall trail in the Sierra Samana mountain range.

Jet Blue’s inaugural Dominican Republic arrival is a memorable one

When a plane lands at an airport and fire trucks quickly begin spraying water over the fuselage, that’s normally a sign of big, big trouble. But that isn’t the case when my JetBlue flight touches down at El Catey International Airport at Samana, in the Dominican Republic.

Instead, as we were advised before landing, streams of water are a traditional way to welcome an airline’s inaugural flight. I notice they also have a practical purpose: washing off the plane’s windows for its return flight.

This arrival celebration marked the beginning of JetBlue’s direct New York-JFK service to Samana, placing this remote section of the Dominican Republic in much easier reach for visitors from the U.S Northeast and Canada. Our arrival also made JetBlue the leading U.S. carrier to the Dominican Republic, with regularly scheduled JetBlue flights arriving at every major destination including Santo Domingo, Punta Cana, Puerto Plata and La Romana in addition to Samana.

Inaugural flight has special greeting. El Catey International Airport, Samana

El Limon is one of Samana’s most popular attractions

The inaugural shower at the Samana airport is a fitting start to a trip that will include visits to some of Samana’s most popular attractions, including the 130-foot high Falls of El Limon (also known as Salto El Limón and Cascada el Limon).

While it’s possible to reach the falls on foot, it probably would be a lonely, rough and likely a muddy trek. Most people prefer to go by horse, which is an unexpected adventure in itself. In the Samana countryside near the falls are various paradas (literally means “stops”) where small ranchers organize excursions to the falls.

Our chosen ranch is Parada Basilio & Ramona’s, located in the tiny community of Sendero el Café. We gather in their open air dining room and learn we must pick through an assortment of bike helmets and knee-high rubber boots, considered essential equipment for our ride.

Ranchers advertise with small signs. Guide protects saddle from rain.

Young guides and sturdy horses

The bike helmets are to protect us in case we fall off a horse, an understandable precaution, especially considering the steep inclines and descents we expect to encounter.The rubber boots are for crossing several swift streams where the water could ome close to our knees. It’s been raining on and off so the rivers are swollen. Good news in one sense since it ensures El Limon waterfall will be at full flow.

A line of horses waits for us, each one held by a young villager who not only will serve as our guide but accompany us for the entire trip. As each of us mounts up, a guide is ready to jog beside the horse and stay glued to his rider for the rest of the trip. This ensures there will be no horseplay here with people competing to the top. A good approach considering many of the winding trails are narrow and tight with no space for two horses to pass.

And river crossings? There are two in each direction. Considering that since the age of 12 every horse I have ridden wanted to take a roll in the water when I was in the saddle.
Having a guide leading with the reins makes these a tranquil crossing.

View of my horse crossing. Guides make sure it’s a safe crossing.

Trail’s End

The bumpy ride to the falls takes about 45 minutes. At trail’s end, we reach a large open-air bar and restaurant with almost a dozen picnic tables. The shelter is crowded with riders from other paradas, some like us ready to make the descent to the pool beneath the falls, others preparing to depart.

With new people constantly coming and going, there is no secure place to leave anything and since your guide will be at your side, don’t expect to find anyone to guard whatever you want to leave behind for your trek to the base of the falls. What you ride off with stays with you for the entire time. Travel light.

Salto El Limón are located at the top of the Sierra Samana mountain range, about a thousand feet above sea level. The waterfalls are opposite us, on the other side of the Limon River. Unfortunately, this day is overcast and a light mist (clouds?) blur the waterfall’s impressive display. On a clear day, just the front yard of the bar would have a great view.

View of El Limon waterfall in front of the bar/restaurant where rides end.

The climb down on foot to reach the falls

It’s a walk of several hundred feet down to the pool at the base of the falls. The way down is via a long series of slippery wooden steps with a guard rail for support. Most of our group wades across the pool to reach the opposite bank. Then they make the climb to a second pool better for swimming. Others stay behind to watch two guys dancing atop big rocks being pummeled with water..

When it’s time to make the return trip from the falls, the thousand-foot climb seems to work against flatlanders who live in low country. There’s a surprising amount of huffing and puffing from almost everyone, especially me, with occasional rest stops to suck in air. Maybe it’s the steep incline but it feels like we’re climbing far higher than 1,000 feet.

Cruise passengers from Norway join us

Back at the top we meet a large group of Europeans from the Norwegian cruise line Hurtigruten. Their ship is docked in Samana Bay near the provincial capital of Santa Barbara de Samana. The Norweigans are looking forward to getting their feet wet at the bottom of the falls.

I finally got to know my guide better while at the falls. He’s a 14-year old student who is out of school today thanks to a holiday. Instead of taking the day off, he’s here hoping to earn a tip, the only pay he’ll receive for his work. It’s the same situation for all the guides, though none of us knew this in advance. If we had, some of us would be better prepared because these people have worked hard. There will be a lot of furtive borrowing and lending at the end as soon as we dismount.

Steep stairway to the falls. Base of El Limon waterfall.

Fortunately, the rains hold off until we make the shelter of the bar. Then we experience an intense but short-lived frog strangler that almost blots out the falls. Soon it’s time to mount up and head back. The horses are motivated to return to their pastures; the trip down is 15 minutes shorter than our ascent. And the sun actually comes out briefly to show what a beautiful countryside we are riding through.

Mules vs horses for the ride

Some paradas, unlike Basilio & Ramona’s, use mules instead of horses. Considering the frequent web complaints about mules repeatedly trying to leave the trail and how much harder mules are to handle than a horse, a parada with horses seems definitely preferable.

So is one that serves food. After completing our trip of about 2.5 hours, we’re treated to a truly varied lunch: grilled chicken, spaghetti and tomato sauce, refried beans, rice, a mixed salad of lettuce, tomatoes, onions and fruit. Especially appreciated is the king of beers, a cold Dominican-brewed Presidente. It’s a perfect meal.

For more information about things to do in Samana, click here. For Samana cruise port information, click here.
If you go to El Limon

Many tourists tend to wait until the afternoon, so mornings are less crowded and avoid the hottest part of the day. Wait too late and you could be riding back in the dark, not a happy prospect.

Bring a backpack with water, a snack and sunscreen. If you plan to swim, wear your suit. For the ride, wear jeans, not shorts. Bring an extra pair of socks because the ones you wear while riding could get wet. A wide brimmed hat works well against the hot sun and rain.

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Tulum Maya Photo Album

Posted on June 3, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Maya Ruins at Tulum on a dark, overcast morning at sunrise

Tulum, the walled city built by the Maya on Mexico’s Caribbean Coast around 1200 A.D., has become so popular it now contains two barriers. The first is the old stone wall enclosing the city on three sides. According to archaeologists, these were constructed not for defensive purposes but to prevent the masses from entering the sacred confines where religious and magical ceremonies were held.

Tulum recently added another barrier, this one of rope, to keep the masses of tourists away from the buildings, including the most famous landmark off all, the Pyramid El Castillo. There are two reasons for closing what used to be total access to all the sites. First, the number of visitors has increased dramatically over the past 20 years, from 1,000 to 4,000+ people daily. Second and perhaps more important, too many tourists don’t know how to behave themselves. Instead of appreciating the Riviera Maya’s best known landmark, these egotists were more interested in writing graffiti on Tulum’s stone monuments, leaving such memorable trivia as the day they visited (who cares?) or the name of their eternal love at the time (ditto about caring). Now, even the popular swimming and sunbathing beach on the left of the Pyramid El Castillo is protected by a wooden fence. Fortunately, limited swimming is still possible to the pyramid’s right on a beach reached by a steep stairway.

The ropes make it more difficult to photograph Tulum than previously, but there are still plenty of good vantage points, though it takes a little more effort to find them. These photos were taken over two days, including a very cloudy morning and a sunny afternoon. I also was fortunate enough to have special access to go beyond the rope barriers, part of a group of travel photographers with the Society of American Travel Writers.

This illustration at Tulum shows how the city may have looked

Hated the lousy weather but the dim sunlight did something remarkable: it made it much easier to see the traces of red paint on some of the buildings, a feature the hot sun often glares out, such as the red hands on the exterior of the Templo de las Pinturas (Temple of the Paintings); similar to how bright sunlight on glaciers glares out the blue colors in the ice. This may seem a strange analogy but the hot summer Yucatan sun and sweltering humidity at Tulum made me frequently think of ice and other cold things.

Telephoto of fresco inside Templo Pinturas Tilted tower part of the pyramid complex

Note the rope barrier beside the pathway. Few tourists were present
just before closing time.

Red paint traces at one entrance. Numerous iguanas now inhabit Tulum.

This building is the portal for the winter The solstice portal is adjacent to a temple.
and summer solstices.

The thatch roof shades an interior and           Swimming area to the right of Pyramid
sculpture over the Palace door.                        El Castillo.

Umbrellas useful, rain or shine. Trolley from parking area to the ruins.

A souvenir rug at the Tulum parking area. These are colorful hammocks, not bikinis.

With the last tourist gone, darkness again descends on a deserted Tulum.

Reaching Tulum is a simple thing for anyone staying on the Riviera Maya. It’s just off the main highway from Cancun, easily reached by tour bus or rental car. Not so easy for those on a cruise since most ships with day excursions to Tulum and the Riviera Maya typically dock at Cozumel island, a distance of about 12 miles from Playa del Carmen on the Yucatan mainland. The ferry trip from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen takes about 35 minutes. The first ferry departs Cozumel to Playa at 5 a.m. Then it leaves every hour from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.; the final trip of the day is at 10 p.m.

Two companies offer the ferry service, Mexico Waterjets and Ultramar. Note that ferry schedules on some days do not provide hourly ferry service. Typically, the 8 p.m. and 10 p.m. trips are cancelled from Playa to Cozumel. Cost each way is about US$12.

After reaching Playa del Carmen, your distance from Tulum is almost 40 miles (63 km), a travel time between 45 minutes and an hour depending on traffic. Because of the distances involved and the different modes of travel, a trip to Tulum is an outing best booked through your ship’s excursion desk. You don’t want to get caught in traffic and literally miss the boat.

San Cristobal is National Geographic Endeavour’s Final Galapagos Stop

Posted on January 17, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

by Linda & Tim O’Keefe

A day of amazing contrasts

To the west of us, Isabela Island is one of the Galapagos’ youngest islands and among the first we visited. San Cristobal Island, on the other hand, is the eastern most island in the entire archipelago and ranks among the oldest. San Cristobal also is the first island Charles Darwin visited on his Galapagos voyage but, for us, it’s the last stop on our seven-day journey aboard Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour.

This morning the Endeavour is anchored off San Cristobal at Punta Pitt where we have a choice of a Zodiac ride to look for birds on the island’s volcanic cliff or hike up a dry stream bed that requires “good walking shoes and good physical fitness as it is steep and rather slippery”. Having seen Tim’s pictures from the rugged beach hike with big boulders at Urbina Bay on Isabela Island, I opt for the boat ride; he takes the hike.

Starting the hike to a plateau overlooking Punta Pitt beach

San Cristobal is home to all three species of boobies. Since we’ve seen only blue-footed boobies so far–and only a few of them– we welcome the chance for a good look at all three species before we depart for home. My Zodiac ride will end at the Punta Pitt beach, which is the trailhead for the hike. Once the morning excursion is over, both groups will have an option to swim or snorkel.

As I maneuver into the wave tossed panga, I feel a definite wind chill factor. Thankfully, the Endeavour’s expedition leader suggested bringing a windbreaker. Glad I did, despite the awkwardness of zipping it up over a life jacket and then wearing my backpack on top of the windbreaker. It’s too rough to re-do things and put the windbreaker under the life jacket.

Red-footed booby on cliff rock; blue-footed booby at Punta Pitt beach

A bounty of booby birds

Jason, our naturalist, tells us about the geologic history of San Cristobal and what to expect in our search for boobies. He explains the contrast between the three birds. The blue-footed booby with its blue legs and feet is mostly white with dark wings and mottled back, a pale head with thin dark streaking and a grayish beak. The red-footed booby, the smallest of the three, varies widely in color from mostly white all over except for large brown wings to completely brown. They are the only boobies that nest in trees.

The largest booby is the Nazca, with a beautiful white head and body with a dark tail, orange beak and eyes and its signature mask around all of its face, not just the eyes. Also known as a masked booby, the Nazca booby–like so many other Galapagos animals–is recognized as a distinct masked booby subspecies.

As the Zodiac navigates around a large rock formation, a bull sea lion bellows out to a female hidden in the crevices. Perched high above the male sea lion is the first Nazca booby of the day. At the same time, red-footed boobies glide over us. Taking decent photos is almost impossible–the birds flying, the Zodiac rocking and everyone in the panga moving around trying to see it all.

On San Cristobal’s high plateau, plant life is easier to find and far more colorful
than the booby birds, which are scarce and at a great distance

Looking for birds by Zodiac

Jason, trying as usual to ensure his passengers have the best views, asks the Zodiac driver take us through a narrow channel circling the shoreline to reach the beach at Punta Pitt instead of simply retracing our wake. The ride offers lots of views of nesting birds . . . until our Zodiac motor stalls out. Unfortunately, it happens to be low tide and the channel is too shallow for us to pass through.

Without power, the waves heave the Zodiac against the rocky shoreline. We start playing musical chairs, moving back and forth in an attempt to shove the Zodiac off the rocks. The tide and wind fight against us but we make progress. Eventually, we’re able to push the craft into deeper water so the motor can be lowered back in the water. The engine starts immediately; we slowly back out of the channel. What an unexpected adventure!

After passing more nesting boobies on San Cristobal cliffs, the Zodiac edges onto the beach at our Punta Pitt landing. The beach here is being patrolled by a bull sea lion who is not at all happy about having guests. He swims back and forth parallel to the shoreline, barking warnings at anyone who steps into the water. At the same time, just a few yards offshore a pair of lively sea lion pups porpoise and play, ignoring the agitated adult. Several people decide to ignore the big sea lion’s aggressive manner and enter the cold water to swim. The sea lion pups befriend a snorkeling couple and frolic beside them.

Seal pups playing in the shallows off Punta Pitt beach

Punta Pitt beach landing

No longer distracted by the sea lions, I finally notice how the beach literally sparkles in the sunlight. The glittering sand seems to have jewels ground into it. Not diamonds, of course, but a mineral named olivine, a magnesium iron silicate, that makes this sparkling beach truly spectacular.

A blue-footed booby happens to be nesting on a cliff just above the beach. Tim takes pictures of the booby, noting it’s the closest he’s been to a bird all morning. The birds he saw on his hike were quite far away. He says he spotted two distant red-footed boobies but no Nazcas. Beyond the nesting blue-footed booby are several tidal pools filled with some of the brightest colored Sally Lightfoot crabs we’ve seen the entire trip. The stationary crabs make the best photo subjects of the morning.

Zodiacs begin making trips back to the Endeavour. We’re in no hurry to leave the beach. Eventually, the last hikers return from the mountain, almost 45 minutes later than the other groups. Tim shakes his head. “Poor people had ‘Chatty Cathy’ for a guide. Now they’re going to miss any beach time, just as I did when she was my guide on Isabela. She can’t go 10 seconds without hearing the sound of her voice.” No need to dodge her anymore since this is our last shore landing.

The Sally lightfoot crabs are numerous and wear a riot of colors

Cold snorkeling is the norm

During lunch, the Endeavour sails from San Cristobal to Leon Dormido, a nearby landmark. Leon Dormido, which translates as “sleeping lion” in English, is most commonly called Kicker Rock for reasons I never learn. This isolated rock outcropping is actually the remains of a volcanic tuff cone that split into two towering pieces. The Endeavour anchors the National Park regulated distance from Kicker Rock, the last chance to snorkel in the Galapagos.

The water here is supposed to be more than 100 feet deep and filled with excellent marine life. I feel guilty about not snorkeling yet, but I’ve been waiting for a beach to snorkel with sea lions, perhaps the most popular Galapagos experience. Only a few days earlier I realized our itinerary doesn’t include the island best known for doing this.

So now, looking out at the rough seas and knowing how cold the water is, my decision about whether to snorkel today is simple. A good decision. Later, I learn several friends went into a panic from the cold and rough conditions and had to be hauled out of the water and brought back to the ship. Despite wearing wet suits, others who stick it out are freezing when they return,. A shivering woman apologizes “I’m going to use up all the ship’s hot water trying to get warm!”

A Bryde’s whale spouts near Leon Dormido; the crack in the landmark formation

It’s hard to say good-bye to the Galapagos

Late in the afternoon, the Endeavour lifts anchor and slowly moves toward Leon Dormido, which we are supposed to circumnavigate several times just prior to sunset. The late afternoon light is soft and luminous and most of the ship’s passengers are on deck. Suddenly, in the distance, we notice spray erupting from the sea. Bryde’s whales, the captain announces. What could be a better finale than this?

One whale breeches and another rolls only about 50 yards from the Endeavour’s bow. Just two people were lucky enough to catch the breaching action on camera and I wasn’t among them. But at least I was close enough to witness it all and catch a few frames of the animals.

That evening, Tim and I admit to each other we are not ready to leave the Galapagos just yet. We both wish we could stay on the ship for another week, especially since Lindblad’s Endeavour will visit an entirely new group of islands over the next seven days. It takes the Endeavour two weeks to circuit the Galapagos, so a one-week cruise is just part of the entire expedition.

Although we’ve seen scores of sea lions, hundreds of birds and at least a thousand marine iguanas, we’d be happy to see a lot more of them in next week’s settings.

A farewell look at our Galapagos home, Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Will flying to Euope even be possible?

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Sustainability may guide the ship’s dining choices—but yum!

No shrimp allowed

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dine by Peter Gordon Visual Menu

The Grill by Sean Connolly Visual Menu

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Nickelodeon Suites Resort Impresses Young Theme Park Pro

Real life Sponge Bob is too much!

Dining options at Nickelodeon Resorts

Now it’s live Ninja Turtles

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Surprising Fact: Dominican Whale Watching Easier and Better Than Alaska.

Humpback whales come to Samana to mate and calve each spring

Drifting among goliaths

You can choose between large and small whale watching boats.

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Jet Blue’s inaugural Dominican Republic arrival is a memorable one

El Limon is one of Samana’s most popular attractions

Young guides and sturdy horses

Trail’s End

The climb down on foot to reach the falls

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A day of amazing contrasts

Looking for birds by Zodiac

Punta Pitt beach landing

Cold snorkeling is the norm

It’s hard to say good-bye to the Galapagos

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