Dining on the National Geographic Endeavour

Posted on April 13, 2014 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Classic Spanish paella with shellfish but no shrimp

Sustainability may guide the ship’s dining choices—but yum!

Lindblad Expeditions takes its dedication to conservation seriously, extending it even to the National Geographic Endeavour’s dining room. Although seafood is a staple on the ship’s menus, you’ll never find a shrimp cocktail, fried shrimp or shrimp of any sort. Lindblad banned shrimp from its kitchens more than a decade ago, in the summer of 2001 as part of its sustainable dining program to help preserve fish stocks worldwide.

Lindblad says it could not find any shrimp suppliers who could prove that their shrimp harvesting methods did not damage the marine environment. One of the serious problem shrimp trawlers create is the “bycatch” of unwanted fish species that end up being killed and thrown away. And in some areas the trawlers may sweep the same section of sea bottom several times a year, which leaves no time for re-growth or recovery of the marine habitat.

No shrimp allowed

Shrimp farming also has serious negative impact because shrimp growers have made their pond water poisonous due to the large amounts of artificial feed, pesticides, chemical additives and antibiotics used for the highest possible production rate. Typically, the ponds are located in coastal areas to provide easy access to new fresh water sources to refill them. Unfortunately, instead of reducing pressure on overharvesting, shrimp aquaculture’s toxic effluent is blamed for reducing local shrimp and fish populations in some regions

When it comes to the fish served on board the Endeavour and other Lindblad ships, they are species considered not to be over-fished or caught by environmentally destructive practices. Lindblad Expeditions is not extremist in its sustainability approach. According to Ocean Wise, a Canadian non-profit education and conservation association, an estimated 90 percent of all large, predatory fish have disappeared from the world’s oceans. It states that one recent scientific study predicts a world-wide fisheries collapse by the year 2048. Obviously, this is a topic that impacts all of us and one we all should be concerned about.

Placing the serious aspects of the Lindblad Endeavour’s menu aside, as you’ll see from the accompanying photos and the week’s menus on accompanying pages, no one starves. There is a serious emphasis on flavorful food, although the preparations are not always ones we have every day or perhaps ever have had before. But trying new foods always has been an essential part of travel. The menu emphasizes Ecuadorian cuisine, as you would expect.

Here are some sample signs that are posted to explain unfamiliar dishes:

Lindblad Expeditions does try to cater to the diverse tastes of its passengers. The photo at the top of this post shows paella served once a week at lunch that definitely would not suit vegetarians. So, a vegetarian paella is served at the same meal.

This kind of catering is routine on large cruise ships. But the Endeavour carries fewer than100 passengers. Below is a photo of the vegetarian paella. .

Vegetarian paella, a rice dish from Valencia, Spain

See for yourself what the dining on the Lindblad National Geographic Endeavor is like. You won’t be disappointed, I promise you. If I didn’t like it, I say so. But I do wish that just one time during the week there was an option for a hamburger with all the trimmings. But maybe that was just me.

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Lindblad Endeavour Arrives at Puerto Egas

Posted on March 19, 2014 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Puerto Egas, where wildlife offers a warm welcome

Everyone who takes a Galapagos cruise usually has a favorite shore landing. Mine comes unexpectedly almost midway through the trip when Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour takes us to Puerto Egas on Isla Santiago (also known as James Island and Isla San Salvador).

During our afternoon stop there, everything comes together: the sunlight is gorgeous, we encounter a good variety of birds and mammals and also witness lots of lively animal interaction, including a large bellowing male Galapagos fur seal. Best of all, this is one of the most leisurely walks, without the usual and constant push to keep moving.

Ironically, when the Endeavour arrives and anchors off Isla Santiago, there is no hint this will be a special afternoon. Instead, once our Zodiac lands on a narrow rocky beach, the scenery is almost depressing. A dilapidated house sits on a small cliff above us. After we exit the beach for a better view of the old deserted homestead and its empty, fenced fields, the spot seems even more dismal.

Man’s intrusion leaves an unwanted mark

There may be 30,000 people living in the Galapagos, but this is the first evidence of human occupation we’ve seen since sailing from Baltra on Saturday morning. This unexpected detritus of human intrusion is an irritating reminder of past efforts to harvest salt here. Attempts were made between 1928 and 1930, then again later in 1964.

Both attempts caused significant environmental damage. Settlers burned native and endemic trees for firewood and introduced new plants and animals. The Puerto Egas name refers to the last salt company operation, run by Hector Egas. His venture failed when the price of salt in South America dropped so low that operating in the Galapagos became impractical.

Jarring reminders of the humans who once lived here

Darwin’s Toilet

We quickly leave the settlement area and make the short walk across the island’s narrow point to the other side, which is surprisingly different. It’s long black lava coastline that seems to extend endlessly along James Bay, where Charles Darwin’s ship anchored and he explored the interior of Santiago Island. The shore, comprised of an old lava flow that poured into the ocean, has many large inlets and tidal pools created by the erosive force of the rough wave action.

One of these inlets, a vertical chute where the water rises and ebbs as waves regularly crash against the rock, carries the appropriate if undignified name of “Darwin’s toilet.”

In search of fur seals

This lava shoreline is a favorite haunt of fur seals, the smallest of the pinnipeds and creatures we really haven’t encountered closely before. Endemic to the Galápagos Islands, an estimated 40,000 fur seals are spread throughout the islands, apparently much smaller than just a few decades ago. Scientists say the fur seal population was reduced significantly in the 1980s due to the effects of El Nino, which also reduced the local fish populations.

The best known place to see fur seals is Gruta de las Focas, which has a natural bridge above the inlets where fur seals are normally found. They’re present today because, thankfully for us, Galápagos fur seals are the most land-based of all the fur seals, spending at least 30% of their time out of the water. Fortunately, they also do most of their fishing at night since they prefer to spend as many days as possible warming themselves on the lava rocks and only occasionally sunbathing on sandy beaches.

American oyster catchers were common place at Puerto Egas

Climate changes

Hopefully, the fur seals will be as prevalent here and throughout the Galapagos in coming years since the current climate change seems to have prompted an ambitious group of Galapagos fur seals to look for better fishing waters in Peru. No one is sure why, perhaps because there are more fish there. This migration happened in 2010 when a group of Galapagos fur seals traveled 900 miles (1,500 km) to the northern waters of Peru and established a colony there. It was the first recorded instance of Galapagos seals migrating from their homeland.

Rising water temperatures have been credited as the motivation but the water still averages warmer in the Galapagos. Water temperatures off northern Peru have increased from 62F (17C) to 73F (23C) in the past 10 years; Galapagos water temps average 77F (25C). It’s speculated more such colonies might be established in northern Peru. Still think it’s due to better fish populations in Peru and not the water temperature although the two are often. connected.

Darwin paid scant attention to the fur seals during his visit, perhaps because fur hunters had almost hunted the animals to extinction. On this day fur seals are prominent at Puerto Egas, along with Sally Lightfoot crabs, marine iguanas, American oyster catchers, a Galapagos hawk and more. Two fur seals are in a contest with a sea lion to dislodge the sea lion from its flat rock perch just above the waves.

The sea lion ignores the fur seals’ loud noises and aggressive threats, holding its head high with an expression we interpret to mean something like “Well, there goes the neighborhood!”

Lava gull stalking the Puerto Egas tidal pools

The matter is semi-resolved when one of the fur seals jumps on an adjoining rock and gradually nudges its way into sharing part of the platform. The sea lion refuses to retreat and both animals end up sharing the space. The second fur seal stays in the water, preferring to swim around and keep out of the way. Once the action subsides, we wander away, careful not to trip over or step on the marine iguanas littering the craggy lava surface like washed-up seaweed.

Tidal pools harbor abundant birdlife

As we walk the shoreline in the direction of the ship, it’s obvious the Puerto Egas tidal pools are attracting the largest variety of birds we’ve ever seen in one location. Even several Darwin finches land in the trees bordering the shoreline only a few yards behind the beach. I lag behind the others for the unusually prime photo ops. It’s what photographers call the “golden” or “magic” hour, very close to sunset. The colors are amazing. This one afternoon almost makes up for the cloudy days on most of the trip.

When I finish photographing the birds in the tidal pools, I catch up with my group and see they are watching a Galapagos hawk dine on a sizable marine iguana. We are perhaps 20 yards from the hawk, which is well aware of our presence but continues to feed while keeping an obvious watch on us.

Close animal encounters

We’ve seen numerous marine iguanas along the coast, more than in most places, and it’s not surprising there would be a natural death the hawk would take advantage of. The hawk carefully watches on us as we photograph/view it.

puerto egas fur seal tidal pools-1
Galapagos hawk feeds on its prize meal. Fur seal pup.

The day’s highpoint comes near the end of our walk where we encounter a huge male fur seal and his harem. The males are supposed to grow no larger than 5 feet (1.5m) in length and weigh no more than about 145 pounds. This fellow not only looks much larger and scarily impressive because he sits on a rock plateau just a few feet above us.

Seen in profile, this huge male should emphasize why the Galapagos fur seal’s scientific name is Arctocephalus galapagoensis, from Greek words meaning “bear headed.” It doesn’t. The fur seal does have a short, pointed muzzle, along with a small, button nose and large eyes. The muzzle of most bears I’ve seen are considerably longer and the noses larger than button-size.

Think hound dog, instead. However, when the male fur seal starts bellowing at one of his concubines, he draws his lips back and flashes sharp, triangular teeth that make me think of something as deadly as a bear.

Male fur sea offering us some advice: “Stay away!”

Fur seal mating psychology

Dominant male fur seals are enormously protective of their breeding territory, often required to challenge and chase away challengers. This fellow also obviously expends a lot of effort trying to keep his women in line, though he doesn’t seem to have much success. He seems to be loudly coaxing, or whatever—with hands, he might act like a gorilla beating its chest–to impress the only female sharing the platform. She acknowledges his “whatever,” occasionally swaying her head like a boxer in the ring, but eventually just turns and descends to join the other girls below.

Our guide (a woman) explains, “She’s out to prove she wants more than a one-night stand. He needs to step up his game and romance her.”

It seems absurd that a creature this size and fearsome could ever court (date?) a mate. But males of may species do it. Whales and male sharks do it. Magnificent frigate birds do it (remember the males’ big red sacs?). Male blue-Footed Bobbies do it (by building impressive nests and their dancing). Human males do it, too. Instead of impressive nest building, we offer dinner, a show or a concert. We’ve evolved to not interacting in person with a potential mate and sending text messages instead.

In the Galapagos, you realize a lot about life and love.

Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour off Puerto Egas

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San Cristobal is National Geographic Endeavour’s Final Galapagos Stop

Posted on January 17, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

by Linda & Tim O’Keefe

A day of amazing contrasts

To the west of us, Isabela Island is one of the Galapagos’ youngest islands and among the first we visited. San Cristobal Island, on the other hand, is the eastern most island in the entire archipelago and ranks among the oldest. San Cristobal also is the first island Charles Darwin visited on his Galapagos voyage but, for us, it’s the last stop on our seven-day journey aboard Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour.

This morning the Endeavour is anchored off San Cristobal at Punta Pitt where we have a choice of a Zodiac ride to look for birds on the island’s volcanic cliff or hike up a dry stream bed that requires “good walking shoes and good physical fitness as it is steep and rather slippery”. Having seen Tim’s pictures from the rugged beach hike with big boulders at Urbina Bay on Isabela Island, I opt for the boat ride; he takes the hike.

Starting the hike to a plateau overlooking Punta Pitt beach

San Cristobal is home to all three species of boobies. Since we’ve seen only blue-footed boobies so far–and only a few of them– we welcome the chance for a good look at all three species before we depart for home. My Zodiac ride will end at the Punta Pitt beach, which is the trailhead for the hike. Once the morning excursion is over, both groups will have an option to swim or snorkel.

As I maneuver into the wave tossed panga, I feel a definite wind chill factor. Thankfully, the Endeavour’s expedition leader suggested bringing a windbreaker. Glad I did, despite the awkwardness of zipping it up over a life jacket and then wearing my backpack on top of the windbreaker. It’s too rough to re-do things and put the windbreaker under the life jacket.

Red-footed booby on cliff rock; blue-footed booby at Punta Pitt beach

A bounty of booby birds

Jason, our naturalist, tells us about the geologic history of San Cristobal and what to expect in our search for boobies. He explains the contrast between the three birds. The blue-footed booby with its blue legs and feet is mostly white with dark wings and mottled back, a pale head with thin dark streaking and a grayish beak. The red-footed booby, the smallest of the three, varies widely in color from mostly white all over except for large brown wings to completely brown. They are the only boobies that nest in trees.

The largest booby is the Nazca, with a beautiful white head and body with a dark tail, orange beak and eyes and its signature mask around all of its face, not just the eyes. Also known as a masked booby, the Nazca booby–like so many other Galapagos animals–is recognized as a distinct masked booby subspecies.

As the Zodiac navigates around a large rock formation, a bull sea lion bellows out to a female hidden in the crevices. Perched high above the male sea lion is the first Nazca booby of the day. At the same time, red-footed boobies glide over us. Taking decent photos is almost impossible–the birds flying, the Zodiac rocking and everyone in the panga moving around trying to see it all.

On San Cristobal’s high plateau, plant life is easier to find and far more colorful
than the booby birds, which are scarce and at a great distance

Looking for birds by Zodiac

Jason, trying as usual to ensure his passengers have the best views, asks the Zodiac driver take us through a narrow channel circling the shoreline to reach the beach at Punta Pitt instead of simply retracing our wake. The ride offers lots of views of nesting birds . . . until our Zodiac motor stalls out. Unfortunately, it happens to be low tide and the channel is too shallow for us to pass through.

Without power, the waves heave the Zodiac against the rocky shoreline. We start playing musical chairs, moving back and forth in an attempt to shove the Zodiac off the rocks. The tide and wind fight against us but we make progress. Eventually, we’re able to push the craft into deeper water so the motor can be lowered back in the water. The engine starts immediately; we slowly back out of the channel. What an unexpected adventure!

After passing more nesting boobies on San Cristobal cliffs, the Zodiac edges onto the beach at our Punta Pitt landing. The beach here is being patrolled by a bull sea lion who is not at all happy about having guests. He swims back and forth parallel to the shoreline, barking warnings at anyone who steps into the water. At the same time, just a few yards offshore a pair of lively sea lion pups porpoise and play, ignoring the agitated adult. Several people decide to ignore the big sea lion’s aggressive manner and enter the cold water to swim. The sea lion pups befriend a snorkeling couple and frolic beside them.

Seal pups playing in the shallows off Punta Pitt beach

Punta Pitt beach landing

No longer distracted by the sea lions, I finally notice how the beach literally sparkles in the sunlight. The glittering sand seems to have jewels ground into it. Not diamonds, of course, but a mineral named olivine, a magnesium iron silicate, that makes this sparkling beach truly spectacular.

A blue-footed booby happens to be nesting on a cliff just above the beach. Tim takes pictures of the booby, noting it’s the closest he’s been to a bird all morning. The birds he saw on his hike were quite far away. He says he spotted two distant red-footed boobies but no Nazcas. Beyond the nesting blue-footed booby are several tidal pools filled with some of the brightest colored Sally Lightfoot crabs we’ve seen the entire trip. The stationary crabs make the best photo subjects of the morning.

Zodiacs begin making trips back to the Endeavour. We’re in no hurry to leave the beach. Eventually, the last hikers return from the mountain, almost 45 minutes later than the other groups. Tim shakes his head. “Poor people had ‘Chatty Cathy’ for a guide. Now they’re going to miss any beach time, just as I did when she was my guide on Isabela. She can’t go 10 seconds without hearing the sound of her voice.” No need to dodge her anymore since this is our last shore landing.

The Sally lightfoot crabs are numerous and wear a riot of colors

Cold snorkeling is the norm

During lunch, the Endeavour sails from San Cristobal to Leon Dormido, a nearby landmark. Leon Dormido, which translates as “sleeping lion” in English, is most commonly called Kicker Rock for reasons I never learn. This isolated rock outcropping is actually the remains of a volcanic tuff cone that split into two towering pieces. The Endeavour anchors the National Park regulated distance from Kicker Rock, the last chance to snorkel in the Galapagos.

The water here is supposed to be more than 100 feet deep and filled with excellent marine life. I feel guilty about not snorkeling yet, but I’ve been waiting for a beach to snorkel with sea lions, perhaps the most popular Galapagos experience. Only a few days earlier I realized our itinerary doesn’t include the island best known for doing this.

So now, looking out at the rough seas and knowing how cold the water is, my decision about whether to snorkel today is simple. A good decision. Later, I learn several friends went into a panic from the cold and rough conditions and had to be hauled out of the water and brought back to the ship. Despite wearing wet suits, others who stick it out are freezing when they return,. A shivering woman apologizes “I’m going to use up all the ship’s hot water trying to get warm!”

A Bryde’s whale spouts near Leon Dormido; the crack in the landmark formation

It’s hard to say good-bye to the Galapagos

Late in the afternoon, the Endeavour lifts anchor and slowly moves toward Leon Dormido, which we are supposed to circumnavigate several times just prior to sunset. The late afternoon light is soft and luminous and most of the ship’s passengers are on deck. Suddenly, in the distance, we notice spray erupting from the sea. Bryde’s whales, the captain announces. What could be a better finale than this?

One whale breeches and another rolls only about 50 yards from the Endeavour’s bow. Just two people were lucky enough to catch the breaching action on camera and I wasn’t among them. But at least I was close enough to witness it all and catch a few frames of the animals.

That evening, Tim and I admit to each other we are not ready to leave the Galapagos just yet. We both wish we could stay on the ship for another week, especially since Lindblad’s Endeavour will visit an entirely new group of islands over the next seven days. It takes the Endeavour two weeks to circuit the Galapagos, so a one-week cruise is just part of the entire expedition.

Although we’ve seen scores of sea lions, hundreds of birds and at least a thousand marine iguanas, we’d be happy to see a lot more of them in next week’s settings.

A farewell look at our Galapagos home, Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour

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Photographing Galapagos Tortoises in the Santa Cruz Highlands

Posted on January 13, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Highlands fences must be high enough for tortoises to crawl under

by Linda O’Keefe

Photographing giant tortoises in the wild

After our visit to the Los Gemelos craters, it’s back on the bus for what I hope is an exciting afternoon with giant Galapagos tortoises in the wild. Our Lindblad Endeavour naturalist for the afternoon, Walter Perez, doesn’t share my confidence. He continually cautions us “all we can guarantee you’ll see is lava rock and plenty of it.” Still, I’m optimistic we’ll find some giant tortoises without many problems.

Walter advises us how to track one of the huge tortoises in its natural environment: walk quietly through the forest, listening for sounds made by an 800 lb., five-foot long reptile as it flattens the underbrush in search for food. Fortunately, our search turns out to be incredibly easy.

After our bus turns onto a small winding dirt road and we head toward two small farm buildings in the distance, Walter excitedly points ahead of us. “Look there’s one–and there’s another! Oh boy, I can’t believe this!” Ahead of us, on both side of the road, are what look like large clumps of rock moving through tall grass just 10 to 15 yards from us.

Santa Cruz highland tortoises are Galapagos’ largest

We quickly climb out of the bus. Walter divides us into two groups, one to view the tortoises along the long road and the other to descend the hill behind the farm house. Tim decides to stay with the first group where he knows he can photograph tortoises. I decide to venture off with those going down the hill with Walter.

The slope is surprisingly steep but I glance in the distance to spot what look giant, gray pith helmets scattered across a field. The closer I get, the more I realize the enormity of these creatures. Santa Cruz Island with its humid, grass-rich highlands is home to the largest of all Galapagos Tortoises.

Tortoise walks along the edge of pond.

Different tortoise shell patterns inspired Charles Darwin

These have a domed shell and short neck unlike the tortoises in the dry lowlands with a saddleback shell and longer neck. When Charles Darwin visited the island the vice-governor told him he could tell which island a tortoise inhabited by looking at it. Darwin was astonished by this statement. Yetas he traveled from island to island he realized the shell patterns did vary from location to location. Those distinguishing features were one of the many facets that compelled Darwin toward his theory of natural selection and adaptation.

As impressed as I am with their size, the huge tortoises are not impressed with us at all. In fact, they seem truly oblivious to our presence, continuing to eat, drink and simply wander around. Their movements are slow and deliberate and their legs, feet and toes are enormous, resembling tree trunks with huge toenails. Each toenail is approximately the size of my fist. One tortoise walking through the field reminds me of an alligator back home in Florida as it “high walks” one leg at a time over the ground.

These feet are big!

Tortoises gather at a pond

As the tortoises shift to drink at a small pond covered with pink tiny flowers, I expect to see them drink with a cat-like behavior, lapping up the water. Instead, they barely open their lips as they gently suck in the water. The tortoises share their water hole with a several white-cheeked pintail ducks. We photographers are thrilled by the juxtaposition of the tiny ducks with the giant tortoises. We have an amazingly harmonious portrait of nature not often seen in the wild.

Tortoise sips water with grass still in its mouth

We have only a 45-minute window to photograph the tortoises and much too soon it’s time to return to the bus. My group lingers longer than we should, trying to get that last perfect shot. I could stay here for the rest of the day watching these magnificent creatures loll about but the time crunch is sounding.

As we walk up the hill, Walter comments, “You don’t know how lucky you are!” I leave with mixed feelings: lucky to have witnessed so many tortoises with perfect sunlight but also a little sad to know I probably will never have this kind of opportunity again.

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Lindblad Endeavour Santa Cruz Highlands Tour

Posted on January 12, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

A triple header shore lunch

Before we set out to find Galapagos tortoises in the Santa Cruz highlands, the Lindblad Endeavour has an extended lunch break planned that is surprisingly varied. One stop I did not anticipate: a visit to a still–what we Southern boys would call a moonshine still–and the option to sample its product.

Here’s how it happened. From Puerto Ayora, we drive for 30 minutes into the highlands and stop at an old sugar estate called El Trapiche, Spanish for sugar mill. A local Galapaguenos family still works the property, with an older gentleman and a younger man turning the sugar cane press when we arrive. A donkey, on the other hand, is tethered to a fence off to the side taking what is probably a rare opportunity to relax.

El Trapiche sugar mill donkey; old fashioned sugar mill press

We are all invited to take a turn at the press and several fellow passengers step forward for what is fun for a few turns but would be a long harsh day for real. The long green sugar cane leaves roll through the press with the sugar juice spilling into a pail for processing into large cubes of natural brown sugar sold in the sugar mill gift shop. As we will discover, some of that cane juice will be used for making hootch, English word for cheap whiskey. That was not for sale.

Pounding the coffee beans

On the way to a shed to sample some of the sugar products we’re offered a brief demonstration of how coffee beans–also grown here–are pounded with a huge mortar and pestle. That may seem a strange thing to do with coffee beans but some connoisseurs consider pounding the coffee beans superior to grinding them since the powder from the pounded beans retains all the volatile oils, which give coffee its flavor. Heat–apparently produced through grinding–dissipates the volatile oils. (And that is the end of today’s informative lecture.)

El Trapiche electric sugar mill press; the spurts flames after a douse of moonshine

From the coffee grinding demo we enter a small shed and find a still operating. Obviously distilling your own drinking alcohol isn’t illegal here–as it wasn’t in the U.S. for most of its history–and the elderly gentleman is more than willing to waste his alcohol by throwing it on the still and having it blaze briefly for us to take photos.

Then with some slices of cheese we dip into a bowl of sweet molasses, a by-product of processing sugar cane. Fittingly, the word molasses comes from a Portuguese word for “honey.” This stuff is delicious. Then, an Endeavour guide I’ve rarely seen quickly points out several small bottles of moonshine that he invites us to sample. I’m one of the few interested. I went to graduate school in North Carolina where moonshine and grape juice was a favorite drink. This elixir has to be sampled straight without a mixer. Quite good. And, thankfully, not as potent as I feared.

The Altair Restaurant in the Santa Cruz highlands; pool at the restaurant

From lunch to the Los Gemelos craters

From the sugar mill, we go to a restaurant named Altair and dine on freshly grilled chicken and, if anyone was interested, take a swim just outside the restaurant. Or relax in one of the too few hammocks behind the pool.

The final stop of our triple-header lunch break is at a place called Los Gemelos, the twins, which are two huge craters formed by the collapse of a magma chamber. The craters, on opposite sides of the Puerto Ayora-Baltra road, are quite impressive. They look more like meteor impact craters than the results of some random ground collapse.

One of the Los Gemelos craters; a tree in the cloud forest around Los Gemelos

The walk from crater to crater leads us through a cloud forest called a scalesia forest filled with epiphytes, ferns and orchids. This endangered ecosystem also supposedly is rich with birdlife such as Darwin’s finches including the woodpecker finch and the rare vermillion flycatcher.

Too much sun?

Unfortunately, with the sun out for the first time all day, the forest and the branches are beautifully lighted. Maybe all that sun is bothering the birds because none of us–including our guides–can sight a single bird anywhere. The guides say this is unusual.

I can live with it. I just want the sun to stay out for our next stop where we hope to find giant tortoises in the wild. No wild creature can be relied on to appear where or when you expect it. We can hope we find them. Wildlife photography largely is based on hope.

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National Geographic Endeavour Port Call: Puerto Ayora Walking Tour

Posted on January 10, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Your one & only Galapagos shopping stop

The stop at Santa Cruz Island by the Lindblad Expeditions’ National Geographic Endeavour is an unusually full, busy day. Following our tour of the Darwin Research Station and seeing Lonesome George and Diego, the station’s most famous tortoises, we’re given a little over an hour to tour the waterfront of Puerto Ayora, largest city in the Galapagos. With a population of more than 10,000, Puerto Ayora contains about a third of the islands’ total human population.

Leaving the Darwin Research Station, we turn right onto Avenida Charles Darwin, the port city’s main street which ends at a plaza where buses will take us to the highlands for the rest of the day. It soon becomes clear that almost all the businesses along the street are intended for tourists. Although I spot a few hotels, restaurants and dive shops along the route, they are overwhelmed by the surplus of t-shirt shops.

Not necessarily a bad thing since this is the first and our only real opportunity to shop for Galapagos and Ecuadorian souvenirs. One of the first places we encounter is the Galapagos National Park store, which has a huge selection but whose prices are 2-3X as much as the items at the small shop at the Darwin Research Station. Too bad the Darwin Station’s shop isn’t larger; its offerings are fairly limited.

Here’s a photo scrapbook of our Puerto Ayora walk.

Along Avenida Charles Darwin in Puerto Ayora

National park souvenir store solid as a rock; typical city souvenir store

Souvenir handmade dolls; city cemetery

Charles Darwin Arch, a major landmark on the outskirts of the city.

Shopping stop; mother & daughter on booby statue at Charles Darwin Arch park area

Marina with fishing boats; metal statue of a Galapagos tortoise

Outdoor café empty between breakfast & lunch; handicraft market sign

Candy-striped convenience store; yes, there is Internet!

Some stores really try to stand out; iguana statue across from water taxis

Pier to water taxis—and cruise ship Zodiacs—fronting Academy Bay

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Meeting “Lonesome George,” the World’s Rarest Tortoise

Posted on January 9, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Well, would you be happy to be the last of a rare species?

Poor old “Lonesome George”

When Lindblad’s National Geographic Endeavour anchors off Santa Cruz Island, we go ashore to see the world famous giant tortoise known as “Lonesome George.” As the last member of his species, he is considered the world’s rarest torotise.

Of the 15 different species of tortoise that once lived on 15 different islands of the Galapagos, three are now extinct. A fourth species is about to disappear.,

Lonesome George, estimated at 100 years old and considered in good health, is the last remaining member of the Pinta Island species. The Guinness World Records calls him the world’s “rarest living creature.” The very last of his kind. He supposedly was named after a popular 1950’s comedian, George Goebel, whose nickname was “Lonesome George.”

Considering the near extinction of the tortoises on Pinta Island, it’s hard to comprehend that giant tortoises were once commonplace throughout the world. They lived not only in the Americas but Europe and Asia, going back to the age of the dinosaurs. What depleted Lonesome George’s race is what killed off almost all the world’s giant tortoises.

Darwin Research Station Captive Breeding Sign

Giant tortoises lose out to invasive goats

Scientists say the huge tortoises of eons ago were unable to compete successfully with the many herbivores found on the continents. This is why today they exist only on isolated islands where they have no competition folr food.

Thanks to Charles Darwin’s writings, the Galapagos tortoises are the best known of the remaining giant tortoises. Yet they also survive on the islands of Madagascar and the Seychelles, both in the Indian Ocean.

The Galapagos, of course, owe their name to the giant tortoises, taken from the Spanish word Galápago meaning saddle. Saddleback tortoises aren’t as large or as impressive looking as the bell-shaped shells of animals like Lonesome George. The smaller saddlebacks, however, enjoy a shell shape that allows them to extend their necks higher to feed.

Saddlebacks tend to reside on islands with less vegetation compared to the bigger, dome-shaped tortoises. The larger torotises are still common on islands like Santa Cruz, where the vegetation is relatively rich.

Finding Lonesome George the right mate

Lonesome George is from Pinta Island, where the vegetation was decimated by introduced, goats. Like the giant tortoises that once thrived worldwide, those on Pinta Island were out-competed. After Lonesome George was found in 1971, it took 20 years to move him to the to the Darwin Research Station. The first breeding attempt was in 1993.

Lonesome George’s isolation cell. See any females? He doesn’t either.

George was provided with two female tortoises of different subspecies in an attempt to produce offspring. George and his revolving harem produced eggs but all to date have been infertile. Even if all the eggs did hatch technically the Pinta Island race still would be extinct once Lonesome George is gone. Any offspring would be of mixed, not pure, blood. (Shades of Lord Voldemort!)

$10,000 reward for Pinta Island female torotise

To preserve the Pinta Island subspecies, Lonesome George needs offspring from a Pinta Island female. A $10,000 reward is available to any zoo or private collector willing to provide a Pinta female for Lonesome George to mate. Nonehas been offered. Ironically, it is possible there is a second Pinta Island male tortoise slightly younger than George which lives in the Prague Zoo.

World renown tortoise expert Peter Pritchard considers the shell pattern of the Prague tortoise to be similar to that of George’s but no DNA tests have been conducted to confirm or refute the possibility. For the time being, rescuing the Pinta Island tortoise subspecies is at a stalemate that may never be resolved.

Tortoise eggs being incubated; tortoise breeding pen.

Meeting Lonesome George

Our walk from the Santa Cruz Zodiac to enter the Darwin Research Station and reach Lonesome George takes about 20 minutes. We pass several turtle pens where species from other islands are being effectively bred. Our view from an overlooking walkway into Lonesome George’s pen is depressing. He has a huge space to roam, able to hold scores of giant tortoises.

He looks so large compared to the females offered to entice him. No wonder George isn’t turned on by them. The pen itself seems to have everything a tortoise could want: lots of shade, vegetation and a huge concrete pond. From pictures I’ve seen of George on various web sites, he rarely leaves the pond’s edge.

Only a few steps away from Lonesome George is a crowded pen with an Espanola male tortoise named Diego. Far more energetic but lesser known, he is largely responsible for bringing back his island’s population.

How a tortoise named Diego revived his species

Only 15 tortoises remained on Espanola when the government began eradicating goats there. The entire population was brought to the Darwin Research Station in hopes of increasing their numbers. But an unexpected problem cropped up. All of the males refused to mate.

Diego, the studliest stud of Galapagos tortoises

The San Diego Zoo in California called the Darwin Research Station about a rogue Espanola male tortoise of theirs which was attacking all the other males. Did the Darwin Station want him? Yes, was the fateful answer. When this bully arrived, he was named Diego in honor of the zoo that donated him.

Diego promptly expended all his energy on the receptive females and quickly created a new generation of Espanola tortoises. Diego’s prowess inspired the formerly disinterested Espanola males. The resulting orgy sent more than 1,600 tortoises back to their homeland. Diego remains at the Darwin Station to continue his good work. He deserves a memorial, although I can’t think of a way it would be PG.

Does Lonesome George need sex education?

Meanwhile, Lonesome George is rarely interested, perhaps due to “low T” or maybe he just needs to be inspired (instructed?) as Diego’s buddies were. From what I see, George’s pen is cut off from all other turtle breeding pens.

He has no opportunity to see what is going on around him. He lives in splendid isolation–like someone being confined to a large mansion with his two women. Meanwhile, Diego and his crew are out having fun in their back yard.

George needs to be moved where he can watch Diego in action and get over his performance anxiety. Or performance ignorance. According to our Lindblad guides, they even played music to help inspire Diego. Well, show George some turtle porn. Do something to provide him the same type of motivation given to Diego, who was a bad boy and probably didn’t need it anyway.

Lonesome George is part of the Galapagos National Park logo

A cynic might say the Charles Darwin Foundation which operates the Charles Darwin Research Station deliberately keepis George lonesome and uninspired ito preserve him
as a powerful conservation symbol. Not only is George the Darwin Station’s most famous celebrity and its main attraction, he keeps both the Darwin Research Station and the Galapagos National Park in the public eye.

There can be no true happy ending to his saga without another Pinta Island female.

RIP

Lonesome George died June 24, 2012, without ever successfully mating. He was the last of his kind.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

National Geographic Endeavour Galapagos Dining Recipes

Posted on January 2, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Galapagos cruise food

I would swear that I took photos of some of these dishes on board the National Geographic Endeavour but I can’t find them. My bad!

Shortly before the cruise, Linda found out she was allergic to wheat products and needed to be gluten free. Among numerous other items, that really reduces the kinds of bread you can eat. During the voyage, we met some people who also needed to be gluten-free and especially for them the kitchen is making cassava bread. Linda and I both try it. Where has this been all our lives?

Linda asks Edison, the always helpful dining room manager, if she can be added to the cassava bread list. We have it for breakfast every morning from then on. That’s how accommodating things are in Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic Endeavour dining room.

Cassava Bread/Pan de Yucca

Ingredients:
2 cups   Cassava flour (Yucca or manioc)
2 cups   Grated mozzarella cheese
2   Egg yolks
4 Tbsp.   Butter
Salt to taste

Preparation:
1) Mix all ingredients until consistent and firm in order to form the dough.
2) Form little buns and let them rest for about 10 minutes.
3) Preheat oven at 375 F.
4) On a buttered pan place the buns and put it in the oven for 20-25 minutes until the tops are golden.
______________

Brazilian Xim-Xim Soup

This is a wonderful soup but the recipe makes enough for all the diners at lunch. So, I would suggest you make one-tenth of what the recipe calls for. By the way, this recipe took almost an hour to translate the ingredient measurements (such as a “taza” of this or that).

Ingredients:

Group 1
1 cup   Butter
4 cups   Pearl onion finely cut
4 cups   Red onion, Cubed
4 cups Green & red peppers, cubed
6 Tbl   Garlic, finely cut
1 cup   Ginger, finely cut

Group 2
4 cups   Tomatoes (Skinless & finely cut)
2 cups   Canned tomatoes
16 cups Chicken broth
1 Tsp.   Turmeric
½ Tsp. Cheyenne

Group 3
11 lbs. Fish (wahoo), cubed
1.4 cups Coconut , toasted
1.7 cups Macadamia nuts, toasted
6 cups Coconut milk

Preparation
1) Toast coconut and macadamia nuts in oven until golden brown.
2) Sautee ingredients of Group 1 in butter.
3) Add all ingredients of Group 2 and simmer at low temp for
about 15 min.
4) Just prior to serving the soup, bring to a boil. Add Group 3, stirring
well until the coconut milk is dissolved. Cook until the fish is done

Salt & pepper to taste
________________

Carrot and Ginger Soup
Serves 10

This is a simple soup that anyone who likes carrots and ginger (one of my favorite spices). This also is an easy recipe to reduce from 10 servings to five.

Ingredients:

10   Carrots
1/3 cup   Ginger
1-1 /2 qt   Chicken stock
1 cup   Onions, chopped
1 cup   Whipping cream
1/4 cup Scallions chopped
1/2 cup Parsley
3.50z   Butter

Preparation:
1) Boil carrots until tender. Puree with hand held mixer or food processor.
2) Sauté pureed carrots with onions, ginger and butter.
3) Add chicken stock and bring to a boil for 30 minutes .
4) After carrots are cooked, liquefy through a strainer, return to pot and bring to a boil.
5) Lower heat to medium and add whipping cream, parsley. Salt & pepper to taste.
_____________

Chocolate Decadence
For 12 people

I know there are photos of the Chocolate Decadence somewhere and when I find them I will add them and tweet their appearance. Again, this recipe needs to be cut for 4-6 people rather than the 12 this recipe covers. Add vanilla ice cream.

Ingredients:

11   Eggs
1 lb.   Semi-sweet chocolate
1-1/2 cups   Butter
1 cup   Vegetable oil
1 cup   Sugar

Preparation:

1) Melt together the chocolate, butter and oil, and let it sit until warm.
2) Beat the eggs with the sugar until the mix has become thick. Put it on low
heat for a couple of minutes and combine half of this mix with the melted
chocolate. Combine it slowly, and add the rest of the eggs.
3) Put it in the oven for approximately 20 minutes (350 degrees) When you take
it out of the oven the cake will be a little wet; put it in the refrigerator over
night or at least two hours.
4) Before serving you can pour on Grand Marnier or any kind of liquor on
top along with whipped cream, some chocolate sprinkles and raspberry coulis.

These recipes are a small sample why it can be so difficult to leave the Lindblad Endeavour’s dining room behind. Not saying I wouldn’t have liked a hamburger or pizza at some point during the week. However, Linda and I always like to try new foods. And bring back recipes and see which ones we can incorporate into our lives. Cassava bread is the highest on our priority list. As for the Chocolate Decadence, that will be treat for friends when we can be sure there won’t be any leftovers. I need to lose weight.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Lindblad National Geographic Endeavour Friday Menu Finale

Posted on January 1, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Friday Galapagos cruise dining

Friday night’s dessert menu features what many consider the best of the week: the chocolate decadence. Friday’s lunch and dinner menus feature different presentations of amberjack but don’t overlook the beef filet with caramelized onions and wine sauce.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

National Geographic Endeavour Galapagos Thursday Menus

Posted on January 1, 2012 by M. Timothy O'Keefe

Galapagos cruise dining

There is no Lindblad National Geographic Endeavour lunch menu for the day spent on Santa Cruz Island. This is Galapagos tortoise day, with the morning exploring the Charles Darwin Research Foundation and the afternoon in the highlands watching tortoises roam in the wild.

For lunch is at the Ranch Altair restaurant/hotel in the highlands we had BBQ chicken prepared in a huge traditional oven. The atmosphere, and ready availability of the local beer from the bar made for a relaxing lunch. I turned lazy, not thinking ahead of how I should record everything in notes and photos for this blog. I went into vacation mode. Obviously, Altair is a very satisfying stop.

Thursday’s dinner menu was a buffet BBQ. It was the perfect way to end an outstanding day following our interactions with the Galapagos tortoises. The amberjack was my favorite but the steak was very good, too.

Lindblad Endeavour Galapagos Cruise Links

Sustainability may guide the ship’s dining choices—but yum!

No shrimp allowed

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Puerto Egas, where wildlife offers a warm welcome

Man’s intrusion leaves an unwanted mark

Darwin’s Toilet

In search of fur seals

Climate changes

Tidal pools harbor abundant birdlife

Close animal encounters

Fur seal mating psychology

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A day of amazing contrasts

Looking for birds by Zodiac

Punta Pitt beach landing

Cold snorkeling is the norm

It’s hard to say good-bye to the Galapagos

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Photographing giant tortoises in the wild

Santa Cruz highland tortoises are Galapagos’ largest

Different tortoise shell patterns inspired Charles Darwin

Tortoises gather at a pond

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A triple header shore lunch

Pounding the coffee beans

From lunch to the Los Gemelos craters

The walk from crater to crater leads us through a cloud forest called a scalesia forest filled with epiphytes, ferns and orchids. This endangered ecosystem also supposedly is rich with birdlife such as Darwin’s finches including the woodpecker finch and the rare vermillion flycatcher.

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Your one & only Galapagos shopping stop

Along Avenida Charles Darwin in Puerto Ayora

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Poor old “Lonesome George”

Giant tortoises lose out to invasive goats

Finding Lonesome George the right mate

Meeting Lonesome George

The San Diego Zoo in California called the Darwin Research Station about a rogue Espanola male tortoise of theirs which was attacking all the other males. Did the Darwin Station want him? Yes, was the fateful answer. When this bully arrived, he was named Diego in honor of the zoo that donated him.

Does Lonesome George need sex education?

There can be no true happy ending to his saga without another Pinta Island female.

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Galapagos cruise food

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Friday Galapagos cruise dining

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